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When hands are stained with corruption
Indigo dyeing (靛蓝染) is one of the oldest traditional fabric dyeing techniques in China, with a history spanning thousands of years and closely associated with the lives of many ethnic groups such as the Han, Miao, Yao, and Buyi.
Indigo dyeing is not merely a traditional craft of the Bai people, but also a long-standing cultural heritage, embodying unique historical, cultural, and aesthetic values, closely linked to the beauty and charm of the Dali region. With over 1,500 years of history, the art of indigo dyeing of the Bai people originated during the Eastern Han dynasty, flourished during the Ming and Qing dynasties, and became a distinctive and indispensable cultural symbol of this ethnic group.
Indigo dyeing art reflects the harmony between humanity and nature.
Traditional indigo dyeing techniques require not only skill and meticulousness but also a harmonious blend of human ingenuity and nature. The raw materials for creating indigo dye are derived from the indigo plant, a wild-growing herbaceous plant. The dyeing process itself is an art, demanding that the craftsman possess extensive knowledge of indigo plants, fermentation techniques, dye mixing, as well as experience and patience.
Indigo dyeing techniques have a history dating back over 3,000 years, originating during the Zhou and Han dynasties. Passed down through generations, this method spread not only in China but also to Japan, Korea, Vietnam, and other Southeast Asian countries.
This dyeing technique originated in the 3rd millennium BC and was widely used by many ethnic groups that have now developed into Asian nations.
The origin of indigo dye comes from plants, primarily two species: Indigofera tinctoria and Polygonum tinctorium. Indigofera tinctoria, also known as the indigo plant, is the most common species used to produce indigo dye. This plant originates from tropical Asia and Africa and is widely cultivated in many countries around the world.
Indigofera tinctoria produces a deep, long-lasting blue color, used for dyeing a wide variety of fabrics, from cotton and linen to silk. The indigo dye from Indigofera tinctoria is highly colorfast, resisting fading over time, and gives products a classic, elegant look.
Polygonum tinctorium, also known as Japanese indigo, is a plant native to China. This plant produces a soft blue color, often used in dyeing delicate fabrics and silk. The indigo from Polygonum tinctorium has a bright, not overly dark, blue hue, giving products an elegant and refined look. However, the colorfastness of this indigo is not as high as that of Indigofera tinctoria.
In Chinese culture, indigo is not simply a color but a profound cultural symbol, carrying deep philosophical and humanistic meanings. Indigo not only holds aesthetic significance but also symbolizes purity, serenity, and enduring strength.
New trends and a new philosophy of life are "awakening," gradually bringing people back to nature and sustainable development, encouraging the revival of plant-based indigo dyeing and natural dyes.
Indigo is often associated with the noble qualities of a virtuous person, such as purity, composure, humility, and loyalty. Indigo also symbolizes permanence and longevity, like the green of leaves, mountains, and the sky—evergreen and enduring.
Using rudimentary tools and natural materials, the craftsmen meticulously create patterns that are rich in ethnic colors.
For the Bach people, indigo-dyed clothing is seen as a distinctive cultural hallmark, reflecting their ethnic identity and love of nature. Their indigo-dyed garments are not only beautiful outfits but also works of art, the culmination of the creativity, skill, and dedication of the artisans.
Preserving the artistic soul of indigo-dyed fabrics.
To create indigo dye, artisans must go through a long journey with many meticulous and elaborate steps, from harvesting indigo leaves to achieving the rich, long-lasting blue color of the fabric. Indigo leaves are harvested in the summer, when the amount of indigotin (the pigment that gives the dye its color) is at its highest. This is the "golden time" to harvest indigo leaves because at this time the leaves contain the highest concentration of pigment, ensuring a deep and long-lasting dye color.
Hand-dyeing indigo is a difficult and complex process, and not every manufacturer has the patience to wait for it.
After harvesting, indigo leaves are soaked in water for natural fermentation. This fermentation process is a "miracle" of nature, transforming the indigotin in the leaves into a soluble form, creating a deep blue dye solution.
After the fermentation process, the indigo is filtered and dried into powder. When dyeing is needed, the indigo powder is redissolved in alkaline water. This is a crucial step, requiring experienced craftsmen with their own "secrets" to effectively dissolve the indigo powder, ensuring an even and beautiful dye color.
The indigo dyeing process is fascinating, like a miracle on fabric.
The indigo dyeing process is fascinating, like magic on fabric. First, the artisan sketches and draws the pattern onto the fabric. This step requires meticulousness, skill, and creativity to create intricate patterns that reflect traditional culture. Next, the artisan skillfully ties different sections of the fabric together with string. This tying plays a crucial role in creating the pattern. The tied sections of fabric will not absorb the dye, while the untied sections will.
After the fabric is tied with strings, it is dipped in indigo dye. The dyeing process is often repeated several times to achieve the desired intensity. When the strings are removed, the tied sections of fabric remain white, while the untied sections have absorbed the indigo dye, creating intricate, surprising, and unique patterns.
With its distinctive deep blue hue, it is not just a simple method of dyeing fabric, but also a precious intangible cultural heritage.
The Bai people draw inspiration from nature to create diverse patterns, from the clouds on Mount Cangshan and the ripples on Erhai Lake to birds, flowers, and insects… Each dyed fabric carries a story, reflecting the creativity and love of nature of the Bai people.
Each piece of fabric tells a story.
If you visit Dali, you can't miss Zhucheng Village – the cradle of indigo dyeing art. This is the largest indigo dyeing village, preserving the essence of the traditional craft. Notably, the film "Going to Where the Wind Blows" was also filmed here, with images of dyed fabrics fluttering in the wind, creating a dreamy scene. Tourists can try their hand at indigo dyeing and take home a unique piece of artwork.
Indigo dyeing is not just a craft, but also a heritage embodying the spirit and history of the Bach people. Today, more and more people are interested in intangible cultural heritage and learning how to preserve this art form so that it can continue to be passed on to future generations.
