Da Giang - A gentle journey not for the faint of heart

03/06/2025

What started as a relaxing weekend getaway turned out to be a more challenging trekking trip than even Hang Va. Sweat, blood, leeches, jungle rain – but in return, you get breathtaking scenery and an experience worth twice the money.

It's been exactly one year since my expedition to Va Cave – one of the journeys that will forever remain in my memory because of the majestic and unique beauty of Quang Binh's underground landscape. A year later, I'm backpacking again, this time to Da Giang – Hoa Binh, with the mindset of a relaxing weekend trip because I heard the water is crystal clear, the scenery is dreamy, and the experience is very romantic.

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And yet, I was spectacularly "deceived." Deceived by the breathtakingly beautiful nature, deceived by the challenging route, and deceived by myself – someone who thought that with a 5km run each day, trekking would be easy and "simple." But it was anything but simple; it was the most exclamation-worthy trip I've ever taken, and it was even more difficult than Hang Va!

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Khung cảnh tựa giấc mơ tại Hoà Bình

A dreamlike landscape in Hoa Binh

Almost canceled the tour at the last minute.

The night before departure, it rained heavily, with thunder and lightning, foreshadowing a day of trekking in the rain and wind. At the time, I thought we'd have to brave the rain, or even that the tour would be canceled. But then, the next morning, I woke up at 5 a.m., and it was still pitch black. My worries continued until I reached the meeting point: the sky was clear and cloudless, and the air was surprisingly fresh. A perfect start!

Starting from our pick-up point in Hanoi, we traveled to the outskirts of the city for breakfast. Then, our journey to Hoa Binh began. Our starting point was Ngoi Hoa port, where we took a ferry across the river. Our first steps in Suoi Hoa commune, Tan Lac district, were pleasant – the weather was cool, the scenery beautiful, and our spirits were high. But then the sun rose, the heat was intense, and I started to get out of breath. That feeling isn't unusual if you don't exercise much, but even I, who regularly run, sometimes felt exhausted climbing hills in the midday sun. It's true that hiking in the mountains is unlike walking in a park or running on the street.

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Cảng Ngòi Hoa - điểm tập kết của cả đoàn

Ngoi Hoa Port - the meeting point for the entire group.

Đi đò để đến với điểm bắt đầu hành trình

Take a ferry to reach the starting point of the journey.

A major plus is that every time we stop to rest, all we have to do is look up and we're met with a dreamlike view: lush green forest, a distant waterfall murmuring, and patches of sunlight filtering through the leaves like scattered gold. It's so beautiful that you can't help but exclaim, "Wow!", "Oh my God, how beautiful!"

Trang thông tin du lịch và phong cách sống Travellive+

The journey led me and my group to two caves that haven't been officially named yet. Therefore, with the privilege of being pioneers (or perhaps simply too lazy to remember the names), the whole group jokingly called the first cave "The Struggling Cave" because it was incredibly difficult to crawl inside. This cave has a tiny entrance, but the inside is quite spacious, cool, and filled with strange-looking stalactites and stalagmites.

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Xóm Ngòi, xã Suối Hoa - nơi để hướng dẫn viên phổ biến cách di chuyển trong quá trình trekking

Ngoi Hamlet, Suoi Hoa Commune - the place where guides explain directions during the trekking trip.

The second cave was named "Vả Cave" because the path down was so slippery that everyone nearly "slapped" their face on the ground. The heavy rain the night before had made the mud so runny, each step felt like dancing with gravity. But once you made it through, the reward was a stunning blue lake, a moment that made your heart race, not from fear, but from overwhelming emotion.

Memories of blood, leeches, and mosquitoes.

While idly enjoying the beautiful scenery, I suddenly looked down at my feet and discovered... blood was flowing. I had no idea when it started, only realizing I'd been bitten by leeches when I got home and looked at photos and videos. I didn't get any leeches on my previous trip to Hang Va, but this time I got them all too early!

After exploring the "Vả" cave, the group planned to have lunch inside, but ended up moving to the shelter outside for fresh air. They thought they'd enjoy a relaxing meal surrounded by nature, but instead, they were swarmed by flies and mosquitoes like they were at a buffet. Laughing uncontrollably, they quickly ate their meal and then rushed back into the cave to rest.

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Porter cho hành trình chinh phục Đà Giang

Porter for the journey to conquer Da Giang

The part after lunch is what I remember most, even though I don't have any photos or videos because of the heavy rain. It suddenly started raining heavily just as the group was leaving the cave. The rain made everything dark, the path slippery, and visibility drastically reduced. But that's precisely why the emotions surged: rappelling down slippery rocks, clinging to each step across sharp boulders – it felt like being in a thrilling adventure movie.

It was only 3 PM, but the sky was already gray, and everyone was anxious, fearing they wouldn't make it out in time before dark. But then, as if by magic, the lake appeared, crystal clear as rumored, even though it was still drizzling all around. We quickly took a few photos and videos, then hurried back to the starting point by boat.

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Chinh phục các hang động trong chuyến trekking

Conquer the caves on a trekking trip.

Back ashore, everyone threw off their soaking wet shoes and clothes and rushed back to the city for dinner. Tired but happy, exhausted but satisfied. The sky then turned golden, as if celebrating a successful journey. It wasn't an easy trip, but it was an experience worth every penny. In fact, if you say you spent 10, you got at least 20 in return – truly a great deal!

A trip you should try at least once in your life.

I don't know if the tour company recouped their investment because the service was excellent, the itinerary was perfect, the porters were enthusiastic, and the scenery was breathtaking. But for those who need a break from the hustle and bustle of the city, an experience that is both adventurous and romantic, Da Giang is definitely a must-try destination.

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Must try tour - Đà Giang, Hoà Bình

Must-try tour - Da Giang, Hoa Binh

Of course, be sure to prepare yourself physically, wear sturdy shoes, mosquito-repellent clothing, waterproof gear, and even... a little blood for leeches if needed. But trust me, you won't be disappointed. Because what unfolds before your eyes – from mysterious caves, crystal-clear lakes, slippery rainy paths to moments of huddled together sheltering from the rain with your teammates – is something no photograph can fully capture. You have to go, you have to feel it with your own feet and heart. And then, you too will exclaim: "Oh wow!"

Text and photos: Hoang Anh
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