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According to historical records, Mo Market has existed since the 13th-14th centuries, located in the Ke Mo area south of Thang Long citadel. This area was named after the apricot tree – also known as the plum tree – which the locals cultivated extensively for its fruit. Over time, Mo Market became a place for trading agricultural products, animals, seedlings, and livestock. During the Nguyen dynasty, the market was recognized as "a major market in the province," with six monthly sessions on the 2nd, 7th, 12th, 17th, 22nd, and 27th of the lunar calendar.
In 2008, the old Mo Market was temporarily relocated to the Kim Nguu riverside area to make way for the construction of the Mo Market Commercial Center. After six years of construction, in 2014, the traditional market was restored to its original location but entirely housed in the basement of a 15-story building. Since then, Hanoi residents have known this place as the "underground market," a unique combination of a traditional market and a modern commercial space.
Located at the intersection of Bach Mai and Minh Khai streets, Mo Market is one of the oldest traditional markets in Hanoi.
Stepping into the underground market of the Mo Market Shopping Center, customers can find everything from dried goods, clothes, fabrics, votive paper, to eye-catching ornamental fish stalls. However, the biggest attraction of Mo Market is its diverse food court, which is especially bustling at lunchtime.
The market in the basement is diverse, with all kinds of stalls.
Here, diners can enjoy many signature Hanoi dishes such as bun dau mam tom (vermicelli with tofu and shrimp paste), pho (noodle soup), bun rieu (crab noodle soup), nom bo kho (dried beef salad), and countless other attractive snacks. In the summer, refreshing treats like sweet soups, fruit salads, and tofu pudding are popular. In the winter, the food court becomes even more bustling with hot dishes like banh duc nong (hot rice cake), che troi tau (floating sweet soup), and banh goi (pillow-shaped dumplings). Prices here are very reasonable, ranging from 10,000 to 40,000 VND per dish, suitable for the budgets of workers, students, and office workers. This variety and reasonable prices have made the Mo Market food court a familiar destination for quick and delicious lunches for people in the surrounding area.
Although the market has become stable, the initial relocation to the basement was a major challenge for both vendors and customers. “In the beginning, after moving to the basement, the market was deserted and desolate. At that time, we vendors struggled to make ends meet, and we weren't even used to the cramped, poorly lit space,” one vendor shared. Some residents living nearby felt that the basement location was unsuitable for their daily shopping habits. “Sometimes, we just needed to buy some vegetables or eggs, but having to park our cars and walk down to the basement was time-consuming and inconvenient,” one resident shared.
However, over time, scientific organization and improved facilities have made the market more spacious, clean, and bright. The stalls are neatly arranged, easy to find, with ventilation and hygiene systems meeting standards. Some regular customers commented that although the market is no longer as crowded as before, the indoor space offers convenience, especially during Hanoi's unpredictable rainy and sunny days. For office workers or those working in buildings, Mo Market is an ideal choice thanks to its convenient location and reasonable prices, fitting their budgets and schedules.
In the market, the most attractive area is the food court, where diners can enjoy a wide variety of delicious dishes for just 50,000 VND. You can start with Cô Thiết's tapioca dumplings, only 20,000 VND for 5 pieces, a tempting option that sells out by around 12 noon due to the large number of customers taking them home. Or try a full platter of vermicelli with tofu and shrimp paste for only 30,000 VND, enough to fill you up without breaking the bank. In addition, sweet and refreshing desserts for 25,000 VND or iced tea for only 3,000 VND are also great choices to quench your thirst.
According to Ms. Oanh, the owner of a grocery store in the market: "Business is different now than it used to be; there are more and more goods to meet the diverse needs of everyone." The simple, affordable food items combined with the lively atmosphere of the market create an irresistible attraction, especially during peak hours like lunchtime.
Ms. Thiet's tapioca dumplings cost 20,000 VND for 5 pieces.
A full plate of bun dau (vermicelli with tofu) costs only 30,000 VND.
A cup of sweet and refreshing tea costs 25,000 VND.
After nearly a decade of operating in the basement, Mo Market has affirmed its special place in the lives of Hanoi residents. Although no longer an open-air market as before, it still retains the unique characteristics of a long-standing traditional market, blending historical significance with modern life. From a space associated with old streets like Thien Ly or the Kim Nguu River, Mo Market now has a new look but without losing the cultural values that have been intertwined with the people of the capital for generations. The diversity of goods and food not only serves daily needs but also revives the distinctive features of the old market culture in a completely new space.
Mo Market is not just a shopping destination, but also a place that reflects the flexible adaptation of traditional values in a modern context. Despite being jokingly called the "underground market," this market retains its vitality and unique charm, becoming an indispensable part of Hanoi's life and culture.
Here are some more pictures from the market:
The market is bustling, with a wide variety of goods and services.
A small hair salon at Mo Market.
Nail supplies, manicures
One hundred grams of dried strawberries costs 30,000 VND.
The market has two entrances, each with a chute so that vendors can transport their goods.
