Between the memories of Phuc Nhac and the dome of So Kien - A symphony of architecture and time

16/09/2025

There are places we travel to not only admire the sights, but also to listen. To listen to the ringing of bells, the chanting of prayers, the sound of the wind singing through centuries-old archways. And to listen to the story of time silently passing by on every brick, every moss-covered wall.

A journey to discover centuries-old churches.

There are places that hold a serene beauty that we always long to return to. Here, majestic architecture blends seamlessly with the soul of the Northern Vietnamese countryside, offering not only stunning scenery but also a place to listen to the stories of time and find tranquility for the soul.

Vương Cung Thánh Đường Sở Kiện

Sở Kiện Cathedral

That's also what Lam Bao Hoang, a photography enthusiast, found in two famous cathedrals: So Kien Cathedral in Ha Nam and Phuc Nhac Parish Church in Ninh Binh. "The architecture of Catholic churches is not only distinctly European but also an impressive cultural heritage, an ideal place to appreciate art and find peace," Hoang shared.

Nhà thờ Giáo xứ Phúc Nhạc

Phuc Nhac Parish Church

The magnificent beauty of the Sở Kiện Cathedral

Nestled in a peaceful countryside, about 5 km from Phu Ly ward, Ninh Binh province (formerly part of Ha Nam province), the So Kien Basilica (or Ke So Church) stands majestically and splendidly. Begun in 1877, this structure was once the largest and most beautiful Catholic church in Indochina.

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Every detail of European Gothic architecture is meticulously carved, blending with the sturdy and durable materials of traditional Vietnamese construction, creating a magnificent yet familiar whole. Sunlight streams through the large windows, casting mesmerizing shadows and light onto the ancient brick floor. Every corner here has the potential to become a work of art, making it a must-visit destination for photography enthusiasts.

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For many, visiting the So Kien Cathedral is like stepping into a world where the past and present intertwine. Every bell chime, every step shrouded in the shadow of time, seems to whisper of more than a century of history for this land.

Phuc Nhac: The serene beauty of a memory

Not far from So Kien Cathedral, in Yen Khanh commune, Ninh Binh province, is Phuc Nhac Parish Church. This place was once a famous seminary, known as the old Phuc Nhac Institute. While So Kien is magnificent and grand, Phuc Nhac has a more serene and profound atmosphere.

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Unlike the opulence of So Kien, Phuc Nhac evokes a nostalgic feeling, reminiscent of a golden age of knowledge and faith. Soft light filters through tall windows, and thick moss covers the old walls – all creating a space that is both tranquil and sacred. It is this very simplicity that makes Phuc Nhac a deeply moving destination for those seeking inner peace.

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A symphony of life and religion

The long corridors and moss-covered walls seem to tell the story of a bygone era of education and knowledge. Despite the many changes it has undergone, the remains of the structure still evoke a prosperous past, the footprints of those who sought the light of knowledge and faith.

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Beyond their architectural value, these two structures also symbolize the harmonious blend of religion and daily life. The ringing of the church bells not only invites people to attend services but also becomes an integral part of village life, harmonizing with the lively conversations after each prayer.

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Both churches belong to the Phat Diem Diocese, which explains their similarities in style and spiritual values. When visiting, tourists not only admire the architectural beauty but also step into a long story of religion, knowledge, and memory. Every historical detail, from the carved patterns on the walls to the moss-covered corridors, serves as a reminder of the region's historical journey.

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The So Kien Basilica and Phuc Nhac Parish Church are two must-see destinations for those who love architecture, history, and seek a little peace. They are like melancholic melodies echoing across the plains, where the past and present blend, architecture and life intertwine, creating a profound connection with culture and with the soul of each individual.

Text: Hai Anh - Photos: Lam Bao Hoang
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