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Eastern Tibet is very different.
Located in the southeastern part of the Tibet Autonomous Region, bordering Lhasa to the east, Chamdo to the south, and Nakchu to the north, Nyingchi (Throne of the Sun - literally in Tibetan) is named for its unique location. With its lowest point just under 900m and its highest point 7,782m above sea level (Namchebarwa peak), Nyingchi boasts the world's greatest elevation difference and is the place where the sunrise is visible daily in Tibet. Its average elevation of around 3,100m makes it the lowest, most fertile, and most pleasantly landscaped area of the Tibetan wilderness. Nestled between the Himalayas and the Nyainquentanglha mountain range, and often referred to as the "Switzerland" or "Jiangnan" of Tibet, Nyingchi is blessed with stunning lakes, deep canyons (including the Yarlung Zangpo Grand Canyon - the world's deepest canyon), vast forests, sprawling rhododendron fields, and peach orchards bursting with pink blossoms in spring.
Our journey started from Lhasa, traveling along National Highway 318 to Bayi, Pomi, Rawok Lake, and then back to Lhasa via the Linla Highway (the old route). However, to save time, you can fly directly from Chengdu to Nyingchi and then to Lhasa (if you wish).
In late spring in Eastern Tibet, in some places the peach blossoms no longer retain their vibrant color. Ancient peach trees, some with multiple trunks, grow by lakes, along roadsides, on mountains, and in rocky crevices… stretching out their long, slender branches laden with blossoms, both pink and white, waving to us in the wind. In some places, the sky is quite foggy, and occasionally there is rain. However, the clouds descend very low, swirling around the valleys, dragging their long, smoky tails over the pine trees on the mountain slopes, making the scenery magical, even somewhat illusory.
Having previously traveled to Western Tibet, this trip to Eastern Tibet offered me a different perspective, with architecture that felt very much like Bhutanese. The houses and monasteries characteristic of the Nyingma sect here always have roofs (although the slope is quite low, they still have roofs, not flat roofs like in Lhasa or Western Tibet); the windows, beams, and supporting rafters are all decorated with patterns, and lungta (prayer wheels) flutter around the windows, above prayer wheels in various colors: green, turquoise, pink, purple, white, yellow, red... very eye-catching. Outside the Lamaling Monastery, there is even an ancient wooden and stone phallic symbol.
Beautiful Nyingchi
Leaving Bayi, we arrived in Pomi – the land of cherry blossoms. At this time, the blossoms were in full bloom, and some places even held cherry blossom fairs, selling tickets for tourists to enter, creating a huge crowd. Visiting these places is optional; you can simply park along the roadside and take plenty of stunning photos of the cherry blossoms.
Another place in Pomi that I really liked and highly recommend if you visit is Rinchen Family Lodge, located next to Barkhar Gompa. The wooden bedrooms here have slightly poor soundproofing, but the decor is lovely. The bathroom has four powerful heaters, making it quite warm, so you don't have to worry about getting cold while using the toilet or showering, unlike in the Mekong Delta. And especially, each room has a small balcony with a charmingly carved table and two chairs. Sitting there, sipping ginger tea (brought from Vietnam) while watching the cherry blossoms flutter in the breeze and the blue river in the distance is simply wonderful. At night, there are bonfires and dancing, and the dining area is separate, serving milk tea and other delicious dishes.
Nyingchi is not just about cherry blossoms; it also boasts the majestic Namchebarwa mountain, nearly 7,800 meters high, almost perpetually shrouded in fog. We set off quite early from Bayi, with the faint hope of witnessing the sunrise. At this time of year, it's very foggy, with thick, low-hanging clouds. By the time our car stopped at the top of Serkhim La Pass, the dawn was fading, the landscape a grayish-white, surrounded by snow. Suddenly, in an instant, the gray clouds drifted away, and the sharp peak of Namchebarwa gradually emerged, little by little, under the golden sunlight. And I think how incredibly lucky we were.
Besides that, Nyingchi also boasts rivers and lakes with brilliantly clear blue water. Rawok Lake (Rawok tso), located at an altitude of 3,800m above sea level, is the furthest point on the Eastern Tibet route that foreigners are permitted to visit, and it's included in this trip. The road to the lake winds along the Nyang River, a tributary of the Yarlung-Tsangpo River, nestled among rugged mountain slopes. The weather is still very cold this season, and in some places around the lake, the snow and ice are still thick enough to walk on. The colors of the snow and the lungta, the water and the sky blend together, creating a cool and tranquil atmosphere.
Sacred lakes and glaciers
One of the must-see places when talking about Eastern Tibet is Basum Tso – the largest sacred lake of the Nyingma sect in Nyingchi. Basum means "blue lake" in Tibetan, covering an area of 26 square kilometers.2Located at an altitude of 3,538m, Basum Tso Lake is considered one of the world's most attractive tourist destinations by the World Tourism Organization (UNWTO) in 1994, designated as a National Forest Park (2001), and ranked as an AAAAA scenic spot. It is truly beautiful, with its deep blue lake reflecting the surrounding mountains and forests like a mirror. Tashi Island, about 100m from the shore, houses Tso Dzong Monastery – a Nyingmapa monastery built during the Tang Dynasty – and Zodiac trees that are 1,300 years old. Near the southern shore is a Qiuzi hole, blessed by Padmasambhawa, where people often go to pray for children, and also a cave where Guru Rinpoche once meditated.
If you enjoy physical activity, the Midui Glacier is also a relatively reasonable option. From the last parking spot, it takes about two hours of hiking to reach the viewpoint. You can also rent a horse (with a handler) if you're not fit enough, for a few dozen yuan. On the day we visited, it was shrouded in thick clouds, so we couldn't see the mountains, which made the view less spectacular. However, based on some photos I saw before going, it didn't look too bad.
On our last day in Nyingchi, walking around to the front of the hotel, a carpet of tiny white flowers spread across the garden, heralding the arrival of summer. Yellow dandelions were beginning to appear. Wild flowers in shades of blue and purple quietly emerged from the ground, scattered here and there. Pretty pink azaleas, like tiny bells, were also slowly stirring to life. This place would surely be overflowing with flowers in the summer.
The above is just a small glimpse of Eastern Tibet; however, that's the limit of travel for foreigners due to Chinese government tourism restrictions. Having already traveled to Tibet, the western region, and especially the harsh off-road northern section last September, I can confidently say that Eastern Tibet is incredibly gentle, beautifully peaceful, with lush greenery and cherry blossoms everywhere. The lower altitude, more oxygen, more pleasant air, more diverse colors, better roads, and significantly better living conditions make it an absolutely ideal destination for first-time visitors to Tibet who want to enjoy a truly luxurious and different kind of vacation compared to the West.
Additional information
Visa:You need to apply for a Chinese visa.
Trip:From Vietnam, you need to fly to Chengdu (or Kunming) and then fly on to Lhasa/Nyingchi. You can also take a train from Chengdu to Lhasa.
Time:With its ideal terrain and climate, Nyingchi is suitable for visiting in all four seasons. However, from early March to mid-April each year, the Chinese authorities usually do not issue visas to tourists entering Tibet, so consider this when deciding to visit Eastern Tibet in spring. Late May to the end of June is when the rhododendrons are in full bloom, making it very beautiful. October and November would be a great choice for those who are captivated by the golden hues of autumn.
Cuisine:Because Chinese food is quite oily and greasy, and sometimes very spicy, please be aware of this before ordering. You can bring some dry food from home to balance the richness, but be sure to check if it's allowed in the country.
Weather:Spring, autumn, and winter in Eastern Tibet are very cold. For example, when we went in early April, temperatures were typically around 2-5 degrees Celsius in the morning, slightly higher at midday, and could drop below freezing at night.
Skin:
Tibetans discourage wearing short skirts or shorts, and such attire is not permitted in temples. Even if wearing a long skirt, tights underneath are required for modesty.
- When climbing mountain passes, you may encounter snow and very strong winds, so ear-covering hats, scarves, gloves, and thick socks are essential. Wear multiple layers of clothing so you can gradually remove layers if it gets too hot.
Money: Tibetans also use the Chinese yuan (CNY). The exchange rate is approximately 3,400-3,500 VND = 1 CNY. You can also use USD for purchases in Lhasa (such as cordyceps, saffron, etc.). Alternatively, if you have WeChat and your WeChat account is linked to a bank account, you can also make direct payments via WeChat.
Other notes:
- Because entering Tibet requires numerous permits, all of which must be obtained through a Chinese tour company, backpacking is not possible in Tibet. After obtaining a visa, you need to scan your passport and visa for the Tibet agency to process the permit applications. You will need these permit documents to check in at airports (Chengdu/Kunming, etc.) before entering Lhasa/Nyingchi.
- For domestic flights within China, it's best to have companies in Tibet book them for you (partly for convenience, and partly because I heard that you can't buy them yourself without a Chinese ID).
- Due to licensing regulations, when entering Tibet, you will need a tour company/travel agency to handle your arrangements. Transportation, airport transfers, and other related matters will be entirely handled by the tour company. Your only responsibility is to enjoy yourself, sightsee, and take photos in a civilized and respectful manner. I've been to Tibet twice, both times using the services of Tibet FIT, and I've been completely satisfied and comfortable. This is a Tibetan company; from the drivers to the accountants to the tour guides and the CEO, everyone is Tibetan. They've led many Vietnamese groups before, so they understand the tastes and desires of Vietnamese people very well.
Estimated cost for the trip: approximately $2,300 per person for a 14-day trip.
