Ms. Thu Suong left her hometown in the early 2000s. At that time, the city was still unfamiliar with Central Vietnamese dishes. People were familiar with Northern pho and Southern hu tieu, but a bowl of Quang noodles with plenty of water, smooth yellow turmeric noodles, served with raw vegetables was something that made many people hesitate. When mentioning Thu Suong restaurant, people not only remember a bowl of fragrant Quang noodles, but also remember the gentle yet determined voice of Ms. Thu Suong - who brought with her the spirit of Hue, the meticulousness, maturity and fullness in each dish she cooked.
For her, each dish is not just for sale, but to tell a story - the story of the early mornings when her mother lit the stove, diligently soaking rice and grinding flour, the story of the fragrant fresh turmeric season, the story of Hue, gentle but strong, ready to bring out the soul of the homeland to "test" the wind and dust of life. "More than 20 years since the day I brought my hometown's dishes to start a business, bringing the Hue character into my dishes, I do it with all my heart and put it into the Thu Suong brand" - Ms. Thu Suong, the restaurant owner, shared.
Thu Suong Quang Noodles at Khuat Duy Tien, Thanh Xuan, Hanoi
Handmade noodles are "chewy yet soft", "rich yet light"
Unlike industrialized restaurants, at Thu Suong restaurant, the Quang noodles are hand-made every day by her and her sisters, and they say no to pre-made noodles, bleaching powder, or preservatives. The noodles are made from only local rice and fresh turmeric, soaked for enough time, ground, spread over medium heat, and then sliced thinly by hand.
No additives, no flavorings, her noodles are ivory yellow, chewy but not mushy, fragrant with the scent of new rice mixed with the mild spiciness of turmeric - a spice that is both healthy and rich in the identity of the Central region. When put into the mouth, the feeling of "chewy but soft", "rich but light" makes people feel like they are sitting in a country kitchen, next to a pot of boiling broth.
The special thing about Thu Suong restaurant is not only Quang noodles. There are also banh beo, banh nam, bun bo… all bearing the mark of meticulous, patient hands, typical of Hue people.
The dishes are carefully prepared from quality to visual appearance.
The presentation is not elaborate, but each dish is carefully prepared with respect for the diners and the food. The bowl of noodles is only filled with water, but has enough flavor: the sweetness of the simmered bones, the saltiness of the fish sauce, the fragrant aroma of fried onions, the richness of crushed roasted peanuts. The raw vegetables are carefully selected, washed with salt water, and blanched before serving, to keep them crispy while still being safe.
"Cooking is like dealing with people. If you lie a little, you will lose people once and your reputation for the rest of your life," she often tells her kitchen assistants - most of whom are relatives, children in the family, or poor students she takes in to both teach and support.
Handmade noodles
Preserving Hue's essence in the heart of Hanoi with a simple bowl of noodles
After more than 20 years, from a small sidewalk restaurant, Thu Suong now has a spacious store, still maintaining a rustic style, without a large sign. Customers come thanks to word of mouth, thanks to the taste. Every time someone asks why she doesn't expand into a chain, doesn't increase prices, doesn't find investors. For her, a restaurant is not a business, but a way of life.
Each bowl of noodles is a time for her to convey her love for her homeland, each customer is a time for her to continue telling the story of a woman who left Hue to make a living by cooking and kindness.
"Some customers asked why the noodles weren't as bright yellow as other places. She said it was because she didn't use any color. She chose good rice and good turmeric. It's not a strange taste, but it's clean and warms the stomach. She thought that was enough," Ms. Suong confided.
In a city where everything can be shortened from cooking time to delivery, Thu Suong restaurant and the woman who cooks there are like a necessary low note in the hustle and bustle. There, each noodle is a journey from rice to turmeric, from the hands kneading to the small kitchen, and from the heart of the cook to the memories of the eater. More than 20 years, a lifetime and a lifetime can be enough for a dish to become a heritage, if it is made with the passion and character of a Hue person like Thu Suong.
