Two decades of preserving the essence of Quang noodles in the heart of Hanoi.

01/07/2025

In the bustling flow of modern city life, where eateries spring up and disappear in the blink of an eye, it's rare to find a name that has quietly endured for over 20 years, a witness to the passage of time. Thu Sương's Quang-style noodle shop, owned by the muse of Hue, is located on Khuat Duy Tien Street in Thanh Xuan District. Here, hometown dishes are preserved and cherished as if they were the very breath of the person who brought them from the beloved Central Vietnam region.

Ms. Thu Suong left her hometown in the early 2000s. At that time, the city was still unfamiliar with Central Vietnamese cuisine. People were accustomed to Northern pho and Southern hu tieu, but a bowl of Quang noodles with plenty of broth, golden yellow noodles, and fresh vegetables was something that made many people hesitate. When mentioning Thu Suong's restaurant, people remember not only a bowl of fragrant, chewy Quang noodles, but also the gentle yet firm voice of Ms. Thu Suong – who brought with her the spirit of Hue, the meticulousness, maturity, and richness in every dish she cooked.

For her, each dish is not just for sale, but to tell a story – the story of her mother's early mornings, meticulously soaking and grinding rice into flour, the story of the fragrant fresh turmeric season, the story of Hue, gentle yet resilient, ready to brave the storms of life with the soul of its homeland. "For over 20 years since I brought my hometown's cuisine to establish my business, infusing the essence of Hue into my dishes, I've poured my heart and soul into the Thu Suong brand," shared Thu Suong, the owner of the restaurant.

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Mì Quảng Thu Sương tại Khuất Duy Tiến, Thanh Xuân, Hà Nội

Thu Suong Quang Noodles at Khuat Duy Tien Street, Thanh Xuan District, Hanoi

Handmade noodles that are "chewy yet soft," "rich yet delicate."

Unlike industrialized eateries, at Thu Suong's restaurant, the Quang noodles are handmade by her and her sisters every day, and they say no to pre-made noodles, bleaching agents, or preservatives. The noodles are made only with local rice and fresh turmeric, soaked for the right amount of time, ground into a paste, steamed over a medium heat, and then thinly sliced ​​by hand.

Without additives or artificial flavors, her noodles are ivory yellow, chewy but not mushy, and fragrant with the aroma of fresh rice blended with the mild spiciness of turmeric – a spice that is both wholesome and deeply characteristic of Central Vietnam. When you put it in your mouth, the "chewy yet soft," "rich yet delicate" sensation makes you feel like you're sitting in a country kitchen, beside a pot of simmering broth.

Trang thông tin du lịch và phong cách sống Travellive+

What makes Thu Suong restaurant special isn't just its Quang noodles. It also offers banh beo, banh nam, bun bo… all bearing the mark of meticulous, patient hands, truly reflecting the Hue culinary tradition.

Món ăn được chăm chút từ chất lượng đến mặt thị giác

The dishes are carefully prepared, both in terms of quality and visual appeal.

The presentation isn't elaborate, but each dish is prepared with care and respect for the diner and the food itself. The noodle soup is only partially filled with broth, yet it's full of flavor: the sweetness of the simmered bones, the saltiness of the fish sauce, the fragrant aroma of fried onions, and the richness of crushed roasted peanuts. The fresh vegetables are carefully selected, washed thoroughly with salt water, and blanched briefly before serving to maintain their crispness while ensuring safety.

"Cooking is like dealing with people. A single mistake can cost you a person once, and your reputation for life," she often tells her kitchen assistants – most of whom are relatives, family members, or poor students she takes in to teach them the trade while also providing for their education.

Sợi mì được làm thủ công

The noodles are handmade.

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Preserving the essence of Hue in the heart of Hanoi with a simple bowl of noodles.

After more than 20 years, from a small sidewalk eatery, Thu Suong now has a spacious shop, still maintaining its rustic style without a large sign. Customers find her through word-of-mouth and the familiar taste. Whenever someone asks why she doesn't expand into a chain, raise prices, or seek investors, she says that for her, the restaurant isn't just for business, but to nurture a way of life.

Each bowl of noodles is a way for her to express her love for her homeland, and each customer is a chance for her to continue telling the story of a woman who left Hue to make a living as a cook and with kindness.

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"Some customers ask why the noodles aren't as bright yellow as elsewhere, and I tell them it's because I don't use artificial coloring. I choose good quality rice and wholesome turmeric. It doesn't taste unusual, but it's clean and warming to the stomach. I think that's enough," Ms. Suong confided.

In a city where everything can be shortened, from cooking time to delivery methods, Thu Suong's eatery and the woman behind the stove are like a necessary, calming note in the bustling symphony. There, each noodle represents a journey from grain of rice to turmeric, from hands kneading to the small stove, and from the heart of the cook to the memory of the diner. Over 20 years—a lifetime—and a lifetime is enough for a dish to become a heritage, if it is made with the passion and character of a Hue native like Ms. Thu Suong.

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Text and photos: Hoang Anh
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