Hallstatt - half dream, half life

Hallstatt Village in northern Austria is often referred to with many beautiful words: the oldest village in Europe, the most beautiful lakeside town in the world, a fairy tale village, a legendary village, a dream village. For the past 7,000 years, Hallstatt has retained its charming charm, capturing the hearts of many travelers with its "beautiful landscape" nestled in the misty Aps Mountains, facing the peaceful Hallstätter See Lake.

The ancient churches, the warm wooden houses located on the mountainside with rows of flowers hanging down by the windows and the trees clinging to the walls in many shapes, the narrow stone-paved roads interwoven with high slopes reflecting on the calm lake surface are the charm of the village, a beauty that seems to come out of a dream.

I had dreamed of this village a few years ago when I accidentally came across a somewhat sad image of Hallstatt on an autumn day with yellow leaves and wet rain. And then today, I set foot here, the beautiful blue sky and sunshine of a late summer day, to realize that the village is only half as beautiful as a dream - half the time of each day.

It is from 5 pm to 9 am that the village comes to life as its true self. The gentle dawn with the first golden rays of the day or the purple sunset reflecting quietly on the lake are the wonderful moments of peace in Hallstatt village.

And then for the remaining half of the day, the village has to struggle with the reality of everyday life. The bustling scene of people passing by and the cheerful laughter on all the streets, from the square to the small alleys, awakens the midsummer night's dream, disturbs the peace and washes away all emotions. After a day of work, no matter how hard, when the sunset comes, Hallstatt gives itself the right to relax, without clinging to all the hustle and bustle before.

Half like a dream

The dreamlike beauty of Hallstatt village seems to be indisputable. The beautiful dream begins as soon as the ferry cuts through the water on the green lake surrounded by mountains, going from Hallstatt train station to the ancient village of Hallstatt. The ancient church and the small, pretty houses quietly appear beside the clear lake, here and there are white swans and ducks with characteristic blue feathers. Just a few minutes standing in front of that beautiful scene, Hallstatt easily wins the hearts of visitors from all over.

The most beautiful moment of the village is probably when dawn breaks. The white clouds hidden on the mountain slopes in the early morning are reflected on the mirror-like lake surface. The whole village seems to glow with a golden color under the first rays of sunlight of the day. The small alleys are deserted leading to the quiet square. The church bell is the only sound that awakens all the activities of the village. Restaurants are starting to clean up. Here and there, the sound of carts creaking on the rough stone road. A new day has begun!

The lovely wooden houses, although similar to the “flower-cabin” style of some other European countrysides, have an unusual charm. They are decorated with climbing plants that cling to the walls in countless graceful and elegant shapes, from roses to fruit trees such as apples and peaches, all meticulously shaped, swaying along each house. Small steps follow each other with wooden handrails leading up to the houses on the hill, opening up a panoramic view of the village from above. From here, the church spire stands out against the old gray roofs.

Being a small village, it only took me a few hours to walk around. There are also some historical places such as the Hallstatt Museum, the Bone Museum, the oldest salt mine in the world, or the observatory on the top of the mountain. I did not go to any place but liked to wander around and look at every corner of the street like here. Then, by chance, I passed by the old church, listening to the extremely charming Hallaluya song of an elderly choir. The mothers and aunts were passionately showing off their voices to the skillful piano of an elegant uncle.

In the late afternoon, when all the tourists have gone home, the village can relax. The faint light of twilight is still enough to make the Alps reflect their magical blue color on the lake. There is nothing more peaceful than sitting by the water's edge watching the swans play with the ducks. And when the sun sets, the lights are turned on, the whole village shimmers enchantingly in purple.

Half a life…

Hallstatt is located not far from two major cities of Austria, Vienna and Salzburg (only a few hours by bus or train). In addition, there are not many guesthouses and hotels in the village, and the prices are a bit high, so most tourists come here for a day trip. Because of that, from 9am to 5pm is the time when Hallstatt is stuffy, welcoming groups of tourists flocking in like a festival.

One thing that is remarkable is that 70% of tourists come from Asia, with China, Korea and Vietnam almost at the top of the list. Hallstatt is so popular with Chinese tourists that they built an identical village in Huizhou (Guangdong province), called China's Hallstatt. It is said that this project is still unfinished, so the number of Chinese tourists coming to the original Hallstatt is still overwhelming.

As a tourist, I feel frustrated by the large number of visitors, let alone the locals. Of course, tourists are the main source of income, maintaining the prosperity of Hallstatt, but they also greatly reduce the charm of the village. “Pickpocket” warning signs are posted here and there. “Privacy required” signs can also be seen on many walls. However, most of the information is written in German and English, so should there be a few Asian languages ​​too!?

Tourists cannot be blamed for laughing loudly, talking loudly, taking pictures everywhere because they are enjoying their leisurely travel time. I just quietly hide in the quiet corners or sneak into a restaurant by the lake, drink a glass of beer, watch the ducks and swans to salvage the little peace that remains in Hallstatt.

Even if it is only half a daydream, Hallstatt is still a place to dream. Come here and stay at least one night to live the dream. Then when you wake up from the dream, you will feel full and satisfied…

More information

Visa:You can go to Hallstatt with just a Schengen visa (European visa).

Trip:From Vietnam, you can fly to Salzburg (there is no direct flight, usually have to go through at least one connecting flight), then take the train to Hallstatt. In the opposite direction, you can choose Hallstatt - Salzburg or Hallstatt - Vienna, combining a trip in Vienna.

Time:You can visit Hallstatt at any time of the year. In the summer, this place is a paradise for adventure sports such as climbing, hiking, camping, mountain biking... In the winter, Hallstatt is picturesque and is the season of food festivals, entertainment, and skiing. Hallstatt is located in the cradle of world music, so music is everywhere. Especially during the Christmas season, musicals are performed every night.

Vehicle:Hallstatt is a small village with a slow pace of life. So, you should walk to learn and feel deeply about this beautiful village.

Accommodation:The largest hotel in Hallstatt is Heritage with a room rate of 300 EUR/night, the rest are mostly guesthouses or homestays with prices ranging from 120 EUR to 200 EUR. This price is twice as high as the average room rate in Salzburg, 30% higher than Vienna. Guesthouses in the village center will be more expensive but are very crowded and bustling. Therefore, most tourists do not stay overnight in the village.

I chose a homestay located 15 minutes walk from the village center. The room was cute and cozy in a beautiful and peaceful residential area but not cheap for a homestay: 160 EUR/night.

Cuisine:Hallstatt has a wealth of eateries, from casual to fine dining, from fast food to sophisticated, from alleyways to lakeside eateries. The Seehotel Grüner Baum is the most famous restaurant here, with a seasonal menu and a destination for food lovers.

On average, a dinner at a high-end restaurant costs up to 30 EUR (including a starter, a main course and a glass of beer). If you want something simpler, you can have a burger or spaghetti for less than half the price. The local specialty is grilled bass. The fish is caught in the lake, so the meat is very fresh and sweet.

Ha Nguyen