Hallstatt - half dream, half life

The village of Hallstatt in northern Austria is often described with many flattering terms: the oldest village in Europe, the most beautiful lakeside town in the world, a fairytale village, a legendary village, a dream village. For 7,000 years, Hallstatt has retained its charming allure, captivating countless travelers with its picturesque natural scenery, nestled in the misty Aps Mountains, overlooking the tranquil Lake Hallstätter See.

Ancient churches, cozy wooden houses nestled on the hillside with cascading flowers by the windows and various types of climbing plants, narrow cobblestone streets interwoven with steep slopes reflected on the calm lake – these are the charms of the village, a beauty that seems to have stepped out of a dream.

I had dreamed of this village for several years, ever since I stumbled upon a somewhat melancholic image of Hallstatt on an autumn day with golden leaves and a damp rain. And then today, I set foot here, under the bright blue sky of a late summer day, only to realize that the village is only half as beautiful as a dream – half of each day.

It is between 5 PM and 9 AM that the village truly comes alive. The gentle sunrise with its golden rays or the purple sunset reflecting silently on the lake are the wonderfully peaceful moments of Hallstatt.

For the remaining half of the day, the village struggles with the realities of everyday life. The bustling crowds and boisterous laughter fill every street, from the town square to the narrow alleyways, awakening the summer night's dreams, disrupting the tranquility, and washing away all emotions. After a day of hard work, however tiring, as evening falls, Hallstatt allows itself the right to relax, without clinging to any of the previous rush and noise.

Half like a dream

The dreamlike beauty of Hallstatt village is undeniable. The dream begins the moment the ferry glides across the emerald green lake, nestled amidst the surrounding mountains, from the Hallstatt train station to the ancient village. The old church and charming little houses quietly appear beside the clear lake, with glimpses of pure white swans and ducks with their distinctive teal feathers. Just a few minutes in this breathtaking setting is enough for Hallstatt to easily win the hearts of visitors from all over the world.

Perhaps the most beautiful moment in the village is at dawn. White clouds drift over the mountain slopes in the early morning, reflecting onto the calm, mirror-like surface of the lake. The entire village glows with a golden hue under the first rays of the day. The narrow alleys, deserted, lead to the quiet town square. The church bells are the only sound that awakens the village's activity. Restaurants begin to clean up. Here and there, the creaking of carts on the rough stone road fills the air. A new day begins!

The charming wooden houses, though similar in style to some other European countryside homes, possess an extraordinary allure. They are adorned with climbing plants clinging to the walls in countless graceful and elegant forms, from roses to fruit trees like apples and peaches, all meticulously shaped and delicately arranged along the house's contours. Small steps with wooden handrails lead up to the houses on the hillside, offering panoramic views of the village from above. From here, the church's spire stands out against the weathered gray roofs.

Being a small village, it only took me a few hours to explore it completely. It also boasts several historical sites, such as the Hallstatt Museum, the Museum of Human Bones, the world's oldest salt mine, and the observation deck on the mountaintop. I didn't go to any of these places; I preferred wandering around and admiring the street corners here. Then, by chance, I passed by an old church and listened to the incredibly charming "Hallaluya" sung by an elderly choir. The mothers and aunts enthusiastically showcased their voices to the skillful piano playing of an elegant gentleman.

In the late afternoon, when the day-trip tourists have all left, the village finally comes to a rest. The faint twilight still casts a magical blue reflection of the Alps onto the lake's surface. Nothing is more peaceful than sitting by the water's edge, watching the swans play with the ducklings. And when the sun sets completely, the lights are switched on, illuminating the entire village in a mesmerizing purple glow.

Half a lifetime…

Hallstatt is located not far from two major Austrian cities, Vienna and Salzburg (only a few hours by bus or train). Furthermore, there aren't many guesthouses and hotels in the village, and the prices are quite high, so the vast majority of tourists come here for day trips. Because of this, from 9 am to 5 pm, Hallstatt is bustling with crowds of tourists, like a festival.

Interestingly, 70% of tourists come from Asia, with China, South Korea, and Vietnam almost topping the list. Hallstatt is so popular with Chinese tourists that they built an exact replica in Huizhou (Guangdong Province), naming it the "Chinese Hallstatt." It's said that this project is still unfinished, so Chinese tourists still overwhelmingly dominate the original Hallstatt.

Even as a tourist, I felt frustrated by the crowds, let alone the locals. Of course, tourists are the main source of revenue, sustaining Hallstatt's prosperity, but they also significantly diminish the village's charm. Warning signs about pickpockets are scattered everywhere. "Please respect privacy" signs can also be seen on many walls. However, most of this information is written in German and English; perhaps a few more Asian languages ​​should be included!?

It's understandable that tourists laugh loudly, talk boisterously, and take pictures everywhere; they're simply enjoying their relaxing vacation. I quietly retreated to a secluded corner or tucked into a lakeside restaurant, sipped a beer, and watched the ducks and swans, savoring the last vestiges of peace in Hallstatt.

Even if it's only a dream for half a day, Hallstatt is still a place you should dream about. Come here and stay for at least one night to live in that dream. Then, when you awaken from the dream, you'll feel fulfilled and satisfied…

Additional information

Visa:You can travel to Hallstatt with just a Schengen visa (European Union visa).

Trip:From Vietnam, you can fly to Salzburg (there are no direct flights, usually requiring at least one layover), then take a train to Hallstatt. For the return trip, you can choose Hallstatt - Salzburg or Hallstatt - Vienna, combining it with a visit to Vienna.

Time:You can visit Hallstatt at any time of year. In summer, it's a paradise for adventure sports like mountain climbing, hiking, camping, and mountain biking. In winter, Hallstatt is picturesque and is the season for food festivals, entertainment, and skiing. Hallstatt is located in the heart of the world's music scene, so music can be heard everywhere. Especially during Christmas, musicals are performed nightly.

Vehicle:Hallstatt is a small village with a slow-paced lifestyle. Therefore, you should walk around to fully explore and appreciate this beautiful village.

Accommodation:The largest hotel in Hallstatt is the Heritage, with rooms priced at 300 EUR per night. Most other accommodations are guesthouses or homestays ranging from 120 EUR to 200 EUR. This is double the average room rate in Salzburg and 30% higher than in Vienna. Guesthouses in the village center are more expensive but also very crowded and bustling. Therefore, most tourists do not stay overnight in the village.

I chose a homestay located a 15-minute walk from the village center. The room was lovely and charming, situated in a beautiful and peaceful residential area, but it wasn't cheap for a homestay: 160 EUR per night.

Cuisine:Hallstatt boasts a plethora of eateries, ranging from casual to upscale, from fast food to gourmet dishes, tucked away in narrow alleyways to lakeside establishments. The most famous is Seehotel Grüner Baum, with its seasonal menu and a favorite spot for food lovers.

On average, a dinner at a high-end restaurant costs up to 30 EUR (including an appetizer, a main course, and a beer). For something simpler, you can have a burger or spaghetti for less than half that price. The local specialty is grilled catfish. The fish is caught in the lake, so the meat is very fresh and sweet.

Ha Nguyen