Nostalgia for the old train station in Da Lat

27/04/2020

Dalat Train Station is a tranquil corner where I savor the bitter taste of highland coffee, where I can watch today's young people laughing, talking, and taking photos, and imagine the young people of yesteryear who once sadly parted ways...

One day, while my colleagues and I were chatting, someone suddenly asked: "Which destination in Vietnam is one I could return to countless times without getting bored?" Some said Sa Pa, others suggested Da Nang, Hoi An, or Phu Quoc. But for me, it's always Da Lat. Known as the city of mist, Da Lat is often scorching hot at noon but rainy and cold at night. It's capricious and doesn't always please tourists; in fact, tourists have to "give in" to Da Lat's weather, adjusting their itinerary accordingly based on whether it's sunny or rainy. Every time I go to Da Lat, I don't usually chase after "must-see spots." I simply go strawberry picking, stroll around the lake, fall asleep under a willow tree, or leisurely spend an afternoon sipping a hot cup of coffee at a small cafe halfway up the hill, or let my mind wander to the melancholic song "Wet Eyelashes" amidst the sound of the night rain.

Therefore, no matter how many times I've been to Da Lat, I still haven't explored all the outstanding destinations of this misty city. Only recently did I visit Da Lat Railway Station, an ancient train station nearly 90 years old, home to the only steam locomotive in Vietnam. In 2001, Da Lat Railway Station was recognized as a national historical and architectural monument.

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From the city center, right by Da Lat market, just follow Ho Xuan Huong road towards Lam Vien Square, then go straight along Yersin road for about 2 km up a small slope through the pine forest, and you will see Da Lat train station on your right. Da Lat train station was built by the French from 1932 and completed in 1938. Along with Hai Phong train station, Da Lat station is one of the oldest train stations in Vietnam, as well as in Indochina. The station is designed in the Art Deco architectural style, harmoniously combining modern Western architecture, similar to Trouville-Deauville station in Normandy, with the unique image of a Central Highlands longhouse roof, with three pointed peaks symbolizing the highest peak in the region, Langbiang mountain. In front of the station is a large clock commemorating the time when Dr. Alexandre Yersin discovered Da Lat.

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Previously, there were two daily trains from Da Lat to Nha Trang and Da Lat to Saigon, each with three passenger carriages and one freight carriage. However, during the war, the railway and station became targets of bombing and suffered serious damage in 1972. Afterwards, these sections of track were dismantled for scrap metal, and the steam train carriages of that era were also sold abroad. Currently, only a short section of the nearly 100 km long railway line remains operational, namely the section from Da Lat station to Trai Mat.

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The steam locomotive and remaining railway tracks at the old station, having weathered countless years, have now become a nostalgic check-in spot in the misty city. One train carriage has even been repurposed into a charming little cafe. Despite the limited space, every corner of Da Lat station is beautiful; just 30 minutes or an hour here is enough to capture some truly impressive photos. And it's not just a popular "vintage" backdrop for young people; Da Lat station is also an ideal location for many couples to take wedding photos, capturing sacred moments amidst the tracks, carriages, and moss-covered brick walls.

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Although Da Lat train station has been detached from Vietnam's national railway system, it's not just a tourist attraction. One remaining locomotive and three carriages are still used daily to transport passengers from the central station to the Trai Mat area. Each carriage can hold about 64 passengers and has a relatively new and beautiful interior. The train moves quite slowly, allowing passengers to enjoy the scenery and take photos of Da Lat from different angles as it travels along the hillside, as well as enjoy the fresh air of the highlands, with its vibrant flower farms, old villas hidden under green trees, rolling hills, pine forests rustling in the wind, and small slopes appearing and disappearing in the streets of Da Lat... The journey is quite short, so there are no food or restroom services on board; the locomotive is old and a bit noisy compared to regular trains, but this train ride is still well worth trying for the unique nostalgic feeling it offers.

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At Da Lat train station, there is an information board listing the specific train schedules for the day for passengers, as follows:

  • First trip: 7:45 AM - 9:25 AM
  • Second trip: 9:50 AM - 11:20 AM
  • Third trip: 11:55 AM - 1:25 PM
  • Fourth trip: 2 PM - 3:30 PM
  • Last trip: 4:05 PM - 5:35 PM

The train departs 90 minutes after the return trip; however, you don't necessarily have to return on the next train. You can return on any train on the same day, the latest being the 5:35 PM train. Except on weekends and public holidays, this train will be crowded, and ticket inspectors may ask passengers to board the correct train. Each train carries a minimum of 20 passengers and a maximum of 80. Please note that while Da Lat station sells round-trip tickets, Trai Mat station only sells tickets for the Trai Mat - Da Lat route.

The town of Trai Mat is located 7 km east of Da Lat, a journey of about 25 minutes. Here, you can observe the peaceful life in the cool, fresh air of the highland people, buy fresh fruits and vegetables at the local market, and visit Linh Phuoc Pagoda (also known as Ve Chai Pagoda), the railway tunnel, and the famous hydrangea garden.

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Dalat train station isn't big; the entire train only has three carriages, and the journey lasts less than half an hour... but for me, it's not just a simple photo spot for checking in. Like Dalat itself, it's a tranquil corner where I can savor the bitter taste of highland coffee, where I can watch today's young people laughing, talking, and taking pictures, imagining the young people of the past who once sadly parted ways, where I can board a nostalgic train and travel back in time.

Additional information

Address:No. 1 Quang Trung Street, Ward 10, Da Lat City

Opening hours:8am - 5pm

Ticket prices for visiting the train station:5,000 VND/person

Ticket prices to Trai Mat:

  • Vietnamese tourists: 72,000 VND/person/one-way; 108,000 - 150,000 VND/person/round trip
  • Foreign visitors: 150,000 VND/person/one-way; 170,000 VND/person/round trip
  • Children under 1 meter tall are free.
Huong Thao
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