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EN
Cu Lao Cham is probably not a new name on the tourism map of Central Vietnam. I've heard about it for many years, but every time I went to Hoi An and planned to visit Cu Lao Cham, I couldn't because of various reasons.
And now I'm finally here on Cham Island. Everyone told me to go and come back the same day because the island lacks many things; there's nothing to see besides the beaches. The hotels are just makeshift, budget guesthouses with poor service. However, I decided to stay a night on the island, and perhaps because of that, I was able to fully appreciate the beauty of the people and nature here.
The beaches of Cu Lao Cham are not exceptional, despite their clear blue waters and fine white sand, because I know there are many more beautiful beaches in the world. Scuba diving in Cu Lao Cham is also not very impressive because there aren't many fish and marine creatures. The coral reefs, although vast and diverse in shape, are somewhat monotonous. The charm of Cu Lao Cham lies in the unspoiled simplicity of its beaches and the genuine enthusiasm of the islanders as they strive to develop tourism to survive in their homeland.
BEACHES ON CHAM ISLAND
Cu Lao Cham Island has approximately 3,000 inhabitants and a total of 7 beaches, mainly located on the western coast, facing Hoi An. The main road connecting the beaches is well-built, winding up and down hills; however, it does not yet complete a full circle around the island, with some sections still under renovation and upgrading.
If traveling from north to south, the beaches are, in order, Bai Bac, Bai Ong, Bai Lang, Bai Xep, Bai Chong, Bai Bim, and Bai Huong. Among them, Bai Ong, Bai Xep, and Bai Chong are the three most beautiful beaches with gently sloping white sand, calm, waveless seas, and clear blue water, perfect for swimming and beach activities. Bai Lang and Bai Huong, on the other hand, are bustling with fishing boats.
- BAI ONG
Bai Ong is perhaps the most famous and crowded beach on Cu Lao Cham, not only because of the beauty of the lush green coconut trees along the smooth white sand, but also because of its convenient location and wide beach, suitable for boats to anchor. A row of simple eateries line the beach, offering food and entertainment for day-trip visitors. If you wish to stay overnight, you can choose guesthouses further inland in the village, or pitch a tent on the beach.
Swimming at Ong Beach is wonderful because the sea is very calm, like swimming in a large natural lake. The seawater gets quite cool in the evening, even though the summer weather is still very hot and humid. The scenery is even more enchanting at dusk when the sea and sky seem to merge into one.
- STACKING YARD
I particularly love Bai Xep because of its unspoiled and tranquil beauty. A small beach hidden behind tall trees, with the only access being a series of steps winding through the foliage, Bai Xep is truly deserted and peaceful, with the green of the trees blending with the blue of the sea.
Sitting on the soft sand, watching the tiny waves lapping against the rocks, creating the only lively sounds in this tranquil space. In the distance, fishing boats with tiny Vietnamese flags, affirming the sovereignty of the Fatherland's sea and islands.
- VILLAGE SITE
In contrast to the deserted appearance of Bai Xep, Bai Lang is the most bustling place on Cu Lao Cham, the heart of the island as it has the highest concentration of residents due to the presence of the pier and Tan Hiep market. Hotels, guesthouses, as well as restaurants and seafood eateries seem to be all concentrated here.
Bai Lang beach is bustling from early morning as fishing boats dock with nets full of fresh shrimp, fish, and squid. Buyers and sellers mingle, the sounds of oars and bargaining creating a lively atmosphere at the dock.
BOAT
Au Thuyen is a small strait built by the people of Cu Lao Cham to provide shelter from storms for boats from all over. Located between Bai Lang and Bai Ong beaches, it's bustling with fishermen preparing for their fishing trips early in the morning, hoping for a bountiful catch. Walking along Au Thuyen, admiring the colorful boats reflected on the calm sea, one might think the lives of the fishermen on the island are peaceful and tranquil. In reality, this isn't entirely true. Every year, Cu Lao Cham suffers from many major storms, and many boats have gone out to sea and never returned.
When the boats leave the dock, Au Thuyen returns to its original rustic and peaceful appearance. Then, as the sun sets, it becomes a focal point for young people, gathering to eat, drink, and admire the night sea.
SCUBA DIVING AT CU LAO CHAM ISLAND
Scuba diving tours in Cu Lao Cham all depart from Cua Dai beach in Hoi An, with day trips being the most popular. Because scuba diving isn't a popular activity among Vietnamese tourists visiting Hoi An, only a few companies offer this service, primarily catering to foreigners. However, these companies provide quite attentive and professional service with experienced guides (both Vietnamese and foreign), good equipment, strict safety protocols, and the use of large boats for transportation between diving spots.
There are a total of 10 diving spots in Cu Lao Cham, famous for its extensive coral reefs at depths of around 10 meters. Marine life is relatively scarce; there are no large or exotic fish, only schools of small fish commonly found in other waters. The seawater is quite cold, around 25-26 degrees Celsius.oDuring the day, the weather on the sea was very sunny and hot. On the day I went, due to heavy rain and rough seas a few days earlier, visibility wasn't very good. The currents were relatively strong and constantly changing direction, so you had to stay close to the guide to move around and avoid the currents.
LIFE OF ISLAND RESIDENTS
During my day on Cham Island, I only partially understood the lives of the islanders through brief conversations with a few people I met along the way. Some had been fishermen for generations, operating from small boats to large vessels, experiencing both periods of financial ruin and periods of great success. Others left for Saigon to work for over a decade, returning to their homeland to care for their elderly parents and hoping to open a coffee shop to serve tourists.
The owners of the guesthouse where I stayed were lovely and enthusiastic, caring for their guests like family. They happily shared that life has improved since Cu Lao Cham Island became more well-known as a tourist destination. However, they also expressed concern about the increasing number of guesthouses and resorts springing up all over the island, which will make competition more difficult. The owners of the late-night eatery that night had also just opened a small guesthouse, with most of their customers coming through referrals from acquaintances; they were completely unaware of online booking services. They had also traveled extensively before, but for over a decade now, they have lived peacefully on Cu Lao Cham Island.
The genuine, enthusiastic, and warm-hearted people are the beauty of Cu Lao Cham, and what left the strongest impression on me about this place. They have been developing tourism spontaneously, but are clearly aware of environmental protection. The slogan "say no to plastic bags" is prominently displayed at Cua Dai pier; however, compliance on the island is still a long way off. With the current pace of development, Cu Lao Cham will become more modern and offer more types of services. I only hope that the genuine nature of the people remains intact. I only hope that the simplicity and unspoiled beauty of the beaches will be preserved as they are.
HOW TO GET TO CU LAO CHAM ISLAND?
- To get to Cham Island, you have to go to the pier at Cua Dai beach, a few kilometers from the center of Hoi An. There are 3 ways to get to Cham Island:
- Private speedboat rental: If you're traveling with a large group, you can rent a private speedboat and follow your own itinerary.
- Speedboat (approximately 20 minutes): There are two round trips daily from Cua Dai Beach. One-way ticket price is 100-150 thousand VND per person. Departure times from Cua Dai Beach: 8:30 AM and 2:00 PM. Departure times from Cu Lao Cham Island: 7:15 AM and 1:15 PM.
- Wooden boat (90 minutes): The ticket price is 50,000 VND per person (for Vietnamese citizens; the price is higher for foreigners). It departs from Bach Dang wharf, with one trip daily, leaving at 8:15 AM and returning at 11:15 AM. The wooden boat can transport motorbikes for 30,000 VND per motorbike.
- Alternatively, if you book a snorkeling tour, you'll arrive at Cham Island at lunchtime, stay overnight, and then buy a speedboat ticket back to Cua Dai the next day.
WHAT TO EAT?
When visiting coastal areas, it's essential to try the seafood. The specialties of Cu Lao Cham are rock crabs, conch shells, and various types of squid. Rock crabs live on cliffs and feed on plants; local authorities advise against indiscriminate fishing to protect their natural reproduction. Conch shells are quite delicious and have a firm texture, while squid is very fresh and sweet. Sea urchins are also very common in this area.
WHERE?
Hotels on Cham Island are mostly private, homestay-style accommodations. Guesthouses and hotels are concentrated in Bai Lang, Bai Ong, and Bai Huong. You can find these on online booking websites with prices ranging from 200,000 to 500,000 VND. However, there are many hotels and guesthouses that aren't listed online, offering cheaper prices and decent rooms. Just tell the beachside restaurants your needs, and they'll gladly recommend some. If you want to be closer to nature, you can camp at Bai Ong, which is very safe and cool.
SNORKELING TOUR
If you already have a diving certification (Open Water or higher), the cost for one diving session is 2 million VND, including two dives (with all necessary equipment), round-trip transportation from your hotel in Hoi An, and one lunch on Cu Lao Cham island. The price will be slightly higher for those without a certification. Alternatively, you can also participate in snorkeling for 1 million VND per day, touring the islands.
