Cu Lao Cham is probably not a new name on the tourist map of Central Vietnam. I have heard about this place many years ago, but every time I came to Hoi An and planned to go to Cu Lao Cham Island, I could not do it for many different reasons.
And now I am in Cu Lao Cham. Everyone told me to go back in the day because the island is still lacking a lot of things, there is nothing to see except the beaches. The hotels are just spontaneous cheap motels and the service is poor. However, I still decided to stay one night on the island and perhaps thanks to that, I can see more fully the beauty of the people and nature here.
The sea in Cu Lao Cham is not outstanding, although the beach is clear blue with fine white sand, because I know there are many more beautiful beaches in the world. Diving in Cu Lao Cham is not too impressive because there are not many fish and marine creatures. The coral reef is large and diverse in shape but somewhat monochromatic. The charm of Cu Lao Cham lies in the wild simplicity of the beaches, the sincere enthusiasm of the islanders when they are struggling to develop tourism to stay in their homeland.
BEACHES ON CU LAO CHAM ISLAND
Cu Lao Cham has a population of about 3,000 people with a total of 7 beaches, mainly located on the west coast, facing Hoi An. The main road connecting the beaches is very well built, winding up and down the hills, but it has not yet connected a full circle around the island, and some sections of the road are being renovated and upgraded.
If going from north to south, the beaches are in order: Bai Bac, Bai Ong, Bai Lang, Bai Xep, Bai Chong, Bai Bim and Bai Huong. Among them, Bai Ong, Bai Xep and Bai Chong are the 3 most beautiful beaches with gently sloping white sand banks, calm sea surface without a ripple, clear water that can see the bottom, suitable for swimming and playing on the sea. Bai Lang and Bai Huong are also the busy entry and exit points of fishing boats.
- ONG'S BEACH
Ong Beach is probably the most famous and crowded beach on Cu Lao Cham, not only because of the beauty of the cool green coconut trees on the smooth white beach, but also because of its convenient location, wide coastline, suitable for boats to anchor. Rows of shops along the beach with simple equipment, serving food and entertainment for tourists coming back during the day. If you want to stay overnight here, you can choose a motel a little deeper inside the village, or set up a tent to camp on the beach.
Swimming at Ong Beach is very enjoyable because the sea surface is very calm, like swimming in a large natural lake. The sea water is quite cold in the afternoon even though the summer weather is still very hot. The scene is more magical at dusk when the sea and sky seem to become one.
- LOTTERY AREA
I especially love Bai Xep because of its wild and simple beauty. It is a small beach hidden behind tall trees, the only way to get there is a set of stairs winding through the trees, Bai Xep is truly deserted and peaceful with the green of the trees blending with the blue of the sea.
Sitting on the fine sand, watching the tiny waves crashing into the rocky shore, creating the only lively sounds in the quiet space here. In the distance are fishing boats with tiny Vietnamese flags, affirming the sovereignty of the sea and islands of the Fatherland.
- VILLAGE BEACH
In contrast to the deserted Bai Xep, Bai Lang is the busiest place on Cu Lao Cham, the lifeblood of this island with the highest concentration of residents because of the wharf and Tan Hiep market. Hotels, motels, as well as restaurants and seafood eateries seem to be concentrated here.
Bai Lang is bustling from early morning when fishing boats dock with nets full of fresh shrimp, fish and squid. Buyers and sellers are bustling, the sound of oars and bargaining stirs up the wharf.
BOAT
Au Thuyen is a small strait built by the people of Cu Lao Cham to shelter boats from storms everywhere. Located between Bai Lang and Bai Ong, early in the morning, this place is bustling with fishermen preparing for a trip out to sea with the hope of catching a lot of fish and shrimp. Walking along Au Thuyen, looking at the colorful boats reflecting on the calm sea, it seems like the life of fishermen on the island is very peaceful and warm. In reality, it is not. Every year, Cu Lao Cham suffers many big storms, many boats have gone out to sea and never returned.
When the boats leave the dock, Au Thuyen returns to its original rustic and peaceful appearance. Then, when the sunset appears, this place is again the center of young people, gathering to eat and drink while watching the night sea.
DIVING IN CU LAO CHAM
Diving tours in Cu Lao Cham all depart from Cua Dai beach in Hoi An, most commonly for a day trip. Since diving is not a popular activity for Vietnamese tourists when visiting Hoi An, there are only a few companies that organize this activity, mainly for foreigners. However, the services of the companies are quite thoughtful and professional with experienced guides (Vietnamese and foreign), good equipment, strict diving safety procedures and large boats to move between diving sites.
There are 10 diving sites in Cu Lao Cham, famous for its vast coral reefs at a depth of about 10m. There are relatively few marine creatures, no big fish, no strange fish, only schools of small fish commonly found in other seas. The sea water is quite cold, around 25-26oC while the weather on the sea surface is very sunny and hot. The day I went, due to heavy rain and rough seas a few days before, visibility was not very good. The currents under the sea are quite strong and change direction constantly, so you have to stick close to the guide to avoid the currents.
LIFE OF ISLANDERS
With one day on Cu Lao Cham, I only partly understood the lives of the islanders through short conversations with a few people I met on the road. Some people have been fishermen for generations, from small boats to large ones, sometimes with nothing, sometimes with big wins. Some people went to Saigon to work for more than ten years, now returning to their hometown to take care of their elderly parents and dream of opening a coffee shop to serve tourists.
The owners of the boarding house where I stayed were friendly, enthusiastic, and cared for their customers like family. They happily shared that life had improved as Cu Lao Cham tourism became more well-known. Besides, there was also concern that as more and more boarding houses and resorts were springing up all over the island, competition would become more difficult. The owners of the restaurant that night had just opened a small motel, and most of their customers were introduced by acquaintances, and they had no idea about online booking services. They had also traveled far and wide, but for more than ten years now they have lived peacefully in Cu Lao Cham.
The genuine, enthusiastic and warm-hearted people are the beauty of Cu Lao Cham, which is what left me with the most emotions about this place. They have been doing tourism spontaneously, but are clearly aware of environmental protection. The slogan "say no to plastic bags" is clearly written at Cua Dai wharf, however, compliance on the island is still a long process. With the current development, Cu Lao Cham will become more modern, there will be more types of services. I just hope that the genuineness of the people will remain intact. I just hope that the simplicity and wildness of the beaches will be preserved as they are.
HOW TO GO TO CU LAO CHAM?
- To go to Cu Lao Cham, you have to go to the pier at Cua Dai beach, a few kilometers from the center of Hoi An. There are 3 means of transportation to Cu Lao Cham:
- Private canoe rental: if you travel in a large group, you can rent a private canoe, running according to your schedule.
- Speedboat (about 20 minutes): There are two trips per day from Cua Dai beach. One-way ticket price is 100-150 thousand/person. Departure time from Cua Dai beach: 8:30 and 14:00. Departure time from Cu Lao Cham: 7:15 and 13:15.
- Wooden boat (90 minutes): ticket price is 50,000 VND/person (for Vietnamese, more expensive for foreigners), departs from Bach Dang wharf, 1 trip per day, departs at 8:15, returns at 11:15. Wooden boat can carry motorbikes for 30,000 VND/vehicle.
- In addition, if you book a diving tour, you will arrive at Cu Lao Cham at lunchtime, stay overnight, and the next day buy a speedboat ticket back to Cua Dai.
WHAT TO EAT?
Coming to the sea, of course, you have to eat seafood. Cu Lao Cham's specialties are Stone Crabs, Lady's Breast Snails and squid. Stone Crabs are a type of crab that lives on cliffs and eats plants. Local authorities advise people not to catch them indiscriminately to protect their natural reproduction. Lady's Breast Snails are quite delicious and have very tough meat, while squid is very fresh and sweet. Sea urchins are also very popular in this coastal area.
WHERE?
Hotels on Cu Lao Cham are only private hotels, homestay style. Motels and hotels are concentrated in Bai Lang, Bai Ong and Bai Huong. You can find these hotels on online booking websites with prices ranging from 200-500 thousand. However, there are many hotels and motels that are not registered online, cheaper and the rooms are also very decent. You just need to tell your needs to the restaurants on the beach, they will enthusiastically introduce you. If you want to live close to nature, you can camp at Bai Ong, very safe and cool.
SCUBA DIVING TOUR
If you have a scuba diving license (Open Water or higher), the cost for a diving trip is 2 million VND including 2 dives (with all necessary equipment), 2-way hotel transfers in Hoi An, and 1 lunch on Cu Lao Cham Island. The price will be a little more expensive for those who do not have a license. In addition, you can also participate in snorkeling for 1 million VND/day around the islands.
