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The rich history of Pantelleria
Pantelleria's strategic location in the Strait of Sicily has made it a coveted outpost for many civilizations throughout history. The island was first settled during the Neolithic period, with archaeological remains such as the Sesi (a stone structure used as a funerary dome) revealing the existence of an advanced prehistoric culture. For centuries, nations have vied for control of this rugged yet valuable island.
Pantelleria is a small, mountainous island located between Sicily and Tunisia in the Mediterranean Sea.
Today, traces of its multi-layered history are still evident in the island's architecture, agricultural practices, and cuisine, while many areas retain their pristine, unspoiled beauty. Dalila Calabrese, an Italian travel consultant based in Naples, shares: “What fascinates me about these ‘wild’ Italian islands is the older generations. You might find someone in Pantelleria, even in their 80s or 90s, who has never left the island and knows nothing of life on the mainland. I think this is rare to find in places experiencing tourism overload.”
Sesi - a historical monument on the island of Pantelleria dating back to the Neolithic period, used as a funerary dome.
Advantages from harsh natural conditions
The island's harsh conditions, from the scorching sun and strong winds to the arid climate and rugged terrain mixing dry and volcanic soil, have created a truly impressive natural environment. Natural hot springs and geysers attest to the island's volcanic origins, while coves and sheer cliffs embracing the crystal-clear Mediterranean waters paint a stunning picture of pristine coastal scenery. The island's lush green vegetation contrasts with the dark volcanic rock, and it is precisely these contrasts that have adapted ancient agricultural practices to the island's challenging conditions.
The famous gardens of Pantelleria, with their delicate citrus trees surrounded by stone walls that protect them from the constant strong winds, and the Zibibbo vineyards – the native grape of Pantelleria, also known as Moscato d'Alessandria – thrive on the island's mineral-rich soils. These vineyards are best known for producing passito, a sweet dessert wine made from dried grapes. Much of the Zibibbo grape is used to make passito, but it is also used to make a quieter, less sweet, and drier white wine than passito. “Passito is the oldest, unGMO wine still in existence and is probably one of the first wines cultivated by humans,” Calabrese says.
Zibibbo - a native grape variety of Pantelleria
The grape growing process is recognized by UNESCO.
The method of growing vines in Pantelleria, known as Alberello Pantesco (or vite ad alberello), is a low-bush vine system. The vines are pruned into bushes close to the ground, in holes up to 23 inches (approximately 58 cm) deep. This system has been used for centuries and is believed to have originated with the Phoenicians in the 8th century BC, when they brought the Egyptian grape variety Zibibbo to Pantelleria. In fact, the vite ad alberello cultivation method, used by all farmers in Pantelleria, was recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2014. This was the first agricultural method to receive recognition from the organization.
The Alberello Pantesco method protects the vines from the island's strong winds and retains moisture in the arid soil. “The volcanic soil of Pantelleria, also known as sandy soil, is where the roots easily draw moisture from the ground; this soil is rich in minerals, giving the grapes their characteristic mineral and salty flavors,” says Antonio Rallo, co-CEO and winemaker at Donnafugata, one of the most renowned wineries involved in growing grapes in Pantelleria. This winery began growing grapes on the island using the Alberello Pantesco method in 1989.
The Alberello Pantesco method involves pruning the vines into bushes close to the ground, in holes up to 23 inches (approximately 58 cm) deep.
The harsh environment, low rainfall, and volcanic soil result in lower yields, producing grapes with rich, intense flavors and aromas of raisins, apricots, orange blossom, honey, and tropical fruits. Conversely, fluctuating temperatures increase the grapes' natural acidity, balancing the sweetness from the drying process. “The constant strong winds and lack of water aren’t a drawback – they’re part of what makes the grapes so rich and flavorful,” says Rallo. “This adversity gives the wines their unparalleled character. The influence of the volcanic soil is undeniable; it adds complexity and a sense of the place that created the wine.”
With its rugged terrain and the Alberello Pantesco method, most of the vineyards on the island are harvested by hand. This labor-intensive process also ensures that only the finest grapes are selected at the right time. Finally, to make passito, Zibibbo grapes are harvested and then sun-dried, a traditional technique that concentrates the sugar content and sugar levels while retaining the natural acidity. “Zibibbo is not simply a grape – it is a cultural icon,” Rallo says. “The ability to express the terroir of Pantelleria in both sweet and dry varieties shows the extraordinary adaptability of this grape variety.”
Pantelleria's harsh weather conditions are actually an advantage for developing its winemaking industry.
Pantelleria is not just a vineyard, but a living symbol of humanity's incredible resilience in the face of nature. Pantelleria wines are rare gems worth experiencing at least once in a lifetime, not only for their unique flavors but also for their deep connection to history, dedication, and sustainability. Each bottle from Pantelleria tells the story of an extraordinary land, a rich culture, and the people who preserve the timeless traditions of this region.
