VI
EN
In Ninh Thuan, people dressed in traditional attire—long dresses, skirts, and colorful scarves—make a continuous stream towards the cemetery (in Cham: Nao ghur) to perform the ritual of commemorating their ancestors. Amidst the vast expanse of white sand, the simple graves are marked only by two small stones at the head (north) and foot (south).
Ramuwan, derived from Ramadan (Arabic) meaning "the ninth month of the Islamic calendar," is a sacred time for Muslim communities worldwide. However, for the Cham Bani people, Ramuwan is not just a month of fasting and prayer, but also a unique cultural feature where Islamic beliefs blend with the Cham people's ancestor worship, creating a solemn ceremony rich in spiritual significance.
The Cham Bani cemetery, with its rows of simple graves, is where descendants gather to offer prayers and remember their deceased loved ones.
A journey back to our roots.
Before the day of Ramadan, even before sunrise, Cham families prepare their traditional attire to visit the cemetery to pay respects to their ancestors. The atmosphere is solemn but not gloomy, instead embodying a sacred connection between the living and their forefathers. Dang Thai Tai, a native of Phu Yen province, witnessing this ritual for the first time, couldn't hide his surprise: "My first impression was that everything, from the costumes to the rituals, was very unusual; I've never seen anything like it before. Every detail carries its own meaning, connected to the beliefs and mindset of the Cham people."
Cham people, dressed in traditional attire with long robes, skirts, and colorful scarves, visit gravesites.
To prepare for the ceremony, community leaders wear long white robes with red trim and white headscarves with red tassels. They carry copper boxes containing prepared betel nuts, tobacco, holy water, and incense—essential offerings for the ritual. Family members, from young children to the elderly, wear their finest and newest traditional clothing, showing their reverence for their ancestors.
The community leaders wear long white robes with red trim and white headscarves with red tassels.
Tomb sweeping ceremony: When descendants pay respects to their ancestors.
The cemetery of the Cham Bani people does not have the towering tombs commonly seen, but rather rows of neatly arranged round stones. On this day, each clan comes here to weed, mound the soil, and clean the graves in preparation for the ceremony.
After everything was ready, the main ceremony began. The dignitaries performed the ritual of purifying the graves with holy water, then recited prayers, inviting the ancestors to witness the event. The chanting echoed steadily, blending into the space like a call for the ancestors to reunite with their descendants. Each person then placed prepared betel nuts and leaves at each grave, clasped their hands, and bowed three times to the ground, expressing their reverence and prayers for peace and well-being.
Simple offerings such as betel nuts and holy water are placed on the graves, expressing the devotion of descendants to their ancestors.
Mai Tram, a Cham woman participating in the festival, shared: "This is a time for descendants to express gratitude to their ancestors, and also an opportunity for the whole family to reunite and bond. Everyone recites prayers together, making sacred gestures to ask ancestors to bless the village and those still living with peace and happiness."
Unique features of the Cham Bani ritual
Unlike many other places where people simply light incense at graves, the Cham people's grave-visiting ritual is deeply rooted in their unique culture. All family members wear traditional clothing when visiting the cemetery, demonstrating unity in belief and reverence. Furthermore, the recitation of prayers not only holds spiritual significance but also serves as a reminder of their origins and enduring traditional values.
A Cham people's ritual offering at their graves in Ninh Thuan.
The atmosphere of the ancestral tomb visitation day is a blend of solemnity and joy. Children are happy in their new clothes, joyful to accompany their parents to the tombs, while adults feel a sense of peace having fulfilled their duty to their ancestors. But somewhere, there are still moments of quiet reflection, distant gazes remembering those who have passed away.
Multiple generations of a family gather around the ancestral grave, creating a warm and sacred atmosphere.
The tomb-visiting ceremony is not only the ritual marking the beginning of Ramawan for the Cham Bani people, but also a vivid testament to family bonds, gratitude to ancestors, and the preservation of traditional cultural values. It is a sacred journey where the Cham people always find their roots amidst prayers, incense smoke, and the warmth of family affection.
