The Chinese community contributes to the unique flavor of Saigon (part 1)

Free-spirited like the people of Guangdong

Business acumen and a generous, open-minded nature are the most accurate descriptions of the Cantonese people. This is also clearly reflected in their cuisine, most notably dim sum (pronounced "tim sam"), which is typically served in the morning. Whenever I go for dim sum, I always bring at least two other people along because of its "sumptuousness" and the somewhat "expensive" cost if eaten alone (and frankly, you couldn't possibly finish it all by yourself).

This name also has a very interesting story behind it. It is said that in ancient times, during the Eastern Jin Dynasty, to show his gratitude to the soldiers who shed blood day and night on the battlefield, a general had various pastries made and sent to the front lines to treat them. "Diem Tam" here means "to touch the heart."

Nowadays, dim sum is prepared with a variety of ingredients such as shrimp, scallops, crab, meat, etc., and the chef's skill results in visually appealing and delicious dishes. Due to customer demand, many restaurants are now open all day. When in Saigon, you absolutely cannot miss the Cantonese dim sum restaurants!

Other dishes include: dumplings, herbal tonic dessert, and golden fried shrimp.

Save money like the Teochew people.

The Teochew people, also from Guangdong province, communicate with each other using their own language called Teochew. Teochews are diligent, hardworking, and very thrifty, perhaps due to their nomadic and impoverished lives. Teochew cuisine is typically light and simple.

Many times when I take friends out to eat, they're surprised because the dishes don't look as appealing as other Chinese dishes. For example, the most recent time, my friend and I ordered a plate of stir-fried pork intestines with pickled mustard greens, a bowl of lotus root and bone broth served with white rice, and a bowl of porridge. My friend seemed hesitant, but after taking his first bite, he finished the whole bowl of rice in no time. "It's so delicious!" he exclaimed. And it couldn't be any less delicious! The recipes for these dishes might seem simple, but in reality, besides the main ingredients, the owner adds his own unique flavors, like a family secret passed down through generations.

Pickled mustard greens are perhaps the soul of Teochew cuisine. They simmer them day after day until the greens are tender, melt in your mouth, and it's this distinctive sourness that balances the richness of the main ingredients like meat, fat, and offal. Speaking of which, I remember the braised roasted pork with pickled mustard greens that some Vietnamese families in Saigon and the Mekong Delta have. Whenever there's a family offering sacrifices, any leftover roasted pork is chopped up, added to the pot, and cooked with pickled mustard greens to be eaten gradually. Perhaps, after many years of living together, the Vietnamese have learned this thrifty nature from the Teochew people.

Other dishes include: venison satay noodle soup, and rice noodle soup.

Talented like the Hakka people

The Hakka people are perhaps the smallest group within the Chinese community in Vietnam in general and Saigon in particular. It is believed that the Hakka belong to a branch of the Han Chinese, specifically Old Han Chinese, as their language originates from them. However, numerous theories exist, leaving their origins unclear and uncertain.

The Hakka people are known for their excellent and unique cooking skills. During the French colonial period, the chefs chosen to cook for the French officials were mostly Hakka. They knew how to seamlessly combine Western and Chinese cuisine using ingredients like onions and bell peppers, something other Chinese ethnic groups couldn't do.

In Saigon today, there's still a Hakka-owned restaurant that's been around for nearly 80 years, tucked away in a tiny alley on Ly Thuong Kiet Street. The restaurant serves customers on the first floor, while the ground floor houses the living quarters and kitchen. On my first visit, I ordered a plate of braised pork belly ("khau" means braised until tender, "nhuc" means meat), a plate of Dong Giang tofu, and steamed chicken with salt, as recommended by the owner. I must say, the braised pork belly was incredibly impressive. The tender pork was served with thick slices of taro interspersed with the meat, all accompanied by a rich, flavorful broth made with red fermented bean curd. Each bite brought back childhood memories; it was a truly moving and delicious lunch.

Other dishes include: rice with fried chicken, stir-fried pasta with beef, and stir-fried noodles with beef.

Famous like the people of Fujian

When I think of the people of Fujian, I immediately think of their culture of worshipping the goddess Thien Hau. From a small belief on My Chau Island, the people of Fujian have ventured across the seas, bringing their culture to countries all over the world and gaining recognition from UNESCO.

Fujian has a dish that I think almost every Saigon resident knows: Fujian noodles. Fujian noodles are similar to other yellow noodles, but thicker, chewier, and richer in flavor. They can be stir-fried or cooked in broth like other Chinese noodle dishes. Even now, whenever there's a family anniversary, my father still travels all the way to Cholon to buy the exact same noodles to offer to our ancestors.

Furthermore, Fujian cuisine is also famous for its "Buddha Jumps Over the Wall" dish. This dish is considered a delicacy, containing many ingredients such as scallops, abalone, shark fin, and even ginseng. The meaning of this dish is "so delicious that even monks would climb walls and fall into the water for it."

Other dishes include: Fujian-style braised duck, and Vietnamese spring rolls (bo bia).

The Chinese culture and cuisine in Saigon are so diverse and rich that it's impossible to fully describe them on paper. It's not just about eating and savoring the unique flavors; you also need to be there to admire the old, meticulously decorated houses and shops with their charming pastel-colored walls, and exchange a few greetings to feel their simplicity and genuineness… only then will your meal truly be complete.

Wanderful Dreamers - Photos: Quân Đoàn, Ngọc Trần