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"Every afternoon by the Van Lau wharf,
Who sits, who fishes, who grieves, who is miserable?
Who loves, who feels, who remembers, who longs?
Whose boat is that, faintly visible on the river?
Hearing the boatman's song, my heart aches for my homeland!
Along the romantic Perfume River, in the heart of the ancient capital of Hue, stands Phu Van Lau, a small but historically significant architectural masterpiece with profound cultural value. Majestically situated right on the riverbank, in front of the Flag Tower and behind the Nghênh Lương Pavilion, Phu Van Lau is not only a silent witness to the many ups and downs of the Nguyen dynasty but also a proud symbol of Hue, honored to appear on the 50,000 dong banknote of Vietnam.
Phu Van Lau is located in a prime location, just outside the front of the ancient Phu Xuan citadel, now in Phu Hoa ward, Hue city. With a distance of only 700m from the Imperial Citadel and opposite the Ngo Mon Gate, this structure is not only easily accessible but also holds strategic significance within the capital's architectural system. The name "Phu Van Lau" is derived from three Chinese characters: "Phu" (to display), "Van" (documents), and "Lau" (high tower), implying "a place for announcing and displaying documents of the Nguyen dynasty."
Phu Van Lau - a jewel in front of the Hue Citadel.
Historically, Phu Van Lau originated as a small pavilion called Bang Dinh, built during the reign of Emperor Gia Long to display the results of the imperial examinations. In 1819, during the reign of Emperor Minh Mang, Bang Dinh was officially renovated and upgraded into the more magnificent Phu Van Lau, becoming the place where important imperial decrees were announced. From 1821, after the ceremony of passing the examination results, the list of successful doctoral candidates was also solemnly posted here. The solemnity of Phu Van Lau is further demonstrated by the stone stele "Khuynh cai ha ma" (Respectfully lowering one's hat and dismounting from horse) erected on the roadside, reminding people passing by to "lower their hats and dismount" to show respect to the imperial court. Despite numerous historical events and renovations, Phu Van Lau has retained its distinctive Nguyen Dynasty architecture, affirming the enduring nature of this heritage site.
Phu Van Lau is an architectural structure of paramount importance within the complex of Hue Imperial City relics. Located in front of the Flag Tower – outside the citadel, on the sacred axis connecting the citadel and the imperial city – Phu Van Lau stands in front of the Flag Tower.
The architecture of Phu Van Lau is a vivid testament to the skill of ancient craftsmen. This two-story building is constructed entirely of rare ironwood, with a sturdy column frame and exquisite carvings. The roof is covered with gleaming golden glazed tiles, shimmering like gold in the sunlight, creating a magnificent and majestic appearance. The ground floor of Phu Van Lau is completely open, with a 65cm high railing painted in a light yellow color. This is where imperial decrees, edicts, and examination results were placed on a canopyed pavilion after being read aloud at the Thai Hoa Palace or Ngo Mon Gate, before being carried out by soldiers for public display.
Phu Van Lau is a two-story wooden pavilion with 16 columns, including four central columns that are two stories high; it comprises eight roof sections divided into two tiers, covered with glazed tiles.
On the upper floor, all four sides of the building are constructed of wooden planks, with square windows on the front and round windows on the two sides, symbolizing the harmonious balance of yin and yang. Around the exterior is a system of exquisitely crafted wooden railings adorned with floral, dragon, and phoenix motifs, reflecting the artistic style of the imperial court. The four sides of the second floor are designed in the style of "picture frame silk," meaning that the interwoven wooden slats form square and rectangular sections, reminiscent of soft silk paintings. Above the front windows, gilded and lacquered horizontal plaques decorated with stylized "two dragons facing the moon" further enhance the building's majestic appearance. In addition, the imperial court placed two small bronze cannons in the front courtyard of Phu Van Lau, positioned on either side of the building facing the center, like silent guards.
The upper floor rests on four central pillars, enclosed by wooden walls with windows on the front and sides; surrounded by a wooden railing.
On the upper floor, at the front, beneath the roof and above the window, there is a horizontal plaque inscribed with the three characters "Phu Van Lau".
The ridge and gable edges are intricately decorated with dragon and floral motifs in the style of ceramic mosaic.
More than just a place for announcing official documents, Phu Van Lau is also associated with many anecdotes and important events of the imperial court. Most notably, in 1826, it was the venue for an elephant-tiger fight for Emperor Minh Mang's viewing pleasure. On important occasions such as the Emperor's 40th and 50th birthdays, many lavish celebrations were also held here. Later Emperors Tu Duc and Thieu Tri maintained this tradition on their birthdays. In particular, Emperor Thieu Tri considered Phu Van Lau on the Perfume River one of the 20 most famous scenic spots of Hue, a testament to the beauty and special status of this structure in the hearts of the people and the emperors.
Although a small structure, Phu Van Lau is a building of high aesthetic and artistic value, harmonizing with the landscape and serving as a highlight in the area in front of the imperial city.
Along with Phu Van Lau, Nghenh Luong Dinh is also an ancient architectural structure, painted in red and gold, contributing to the picturesque beauty of the Perfume River bank. Originally the Luong Ta pavilion, located within the Huong Giang royal palace, Nghenh Luong Dinh was built as a single-bay structure with four side wings, featuring two extended, crab-shell-shaped buildings at the front and back. The wooden frame is elaborately carved, the main roof is covered with yellow glazed tiles, while the two side buildings are covered with yellow glazed tiles, and the roofs are inlaid with ceramic tiles depicting phoenixes and dragons. The pavilion's foundation is 90cm high, paved with bricks and bluestone, and on the riverbank, 13 steps lead down to a walkway built close to the water's edge, providing convenient access for the Nguyen dynasty emperors to enjoy the cool breeze and take boat trips on the Perfume River. With its spacious and romantic scenery, Nghenh Luong Dinh is an ideal spot to admire the romantic beauty of the Perfume River at dawn, dusk, or on moonlit nights.
Nghinh Luong Pavilion - Ancient architecture in the heart of Hue city.
Today, Phu Van Lau and Nghenh Luong Dinh are not only important historical relics but also attractive destinations for domestic and international tourists. Images of these two structures are printed on the Vietnamese 50,000 dong polymer banknote, a testament to their enduring historical, cultural value and architectural beauty. Visiting them is like stepping back in time to the golden age of the Nguyen Dynasty. Take the time to carefully read the information boards, observe the images and artifacts to discover their fascinating history, from the humble beginnings of the Bang Dinh to the majestic buildings they stand today.
For a complete and meaningful trip, visitors should remember to wear polite, modest clothing and comfortable shoes for easy movement. At the same time, please maintain cleanliness, refrain from climbing or carving on the monuments, take photos respectfully, and maintain public order. Bringing a hat, cap, and sunscreen is also very useful when visiting in sunny weather. Phu Van Lau and Nghenh Luong Dinh are not only outstanding architectural works but also preserve the sacred spirit of Hue's history and culture. Standing amidst the gilded and lacquered iron columns, listening to the rhythm of life along the Perfume River, each visitor will feel the peace and profoundness of the ancient capital, carrying with them unforgettable memories, a journey connecting the past and the present.
