Living Zen in Ome

Ome is a tranquil, slow-paced, rural city, a complete contrast to the modern lifestyle of Tokyo. Here, you can feel the nostalgic charm of hand-painted movie posters, the serenity of Zen monasteries untouched by tourists, and the warm hospitality of the locals. Near Ome is also the stunning Mount Mitake, a must-see destination with majestic nature and incredibly fresh air.

Visiting a friend's house, enjoying tea and admiring paintings.

On my first trip to Japan, I was very lucky to reconnect with an old friend named Aki Norton, who now lives in Ome City with her American husband, Cole Norton. Their charming little two-story house reminded me of Nobita and Doraemon's house. They welcomed me very warmly and gave me an authentic experience of rural Japanese life.

I was offered dishes made with organically grown vegetables by the couple themselves. Breakfast usually consists of a bowl of rice, miso soup, and a side dish.nattoNatto, which is fermented soybeans. I still remember the nervousness my siblings felt when I tried natto for the first time, because not every foreign visitor can tolerate its strange taste. Having been used to trying new things, I found natto not at all difficult to eat; in fact, it tasted a bit like chocolate. And to end each meal, a cup of green tea made from pure matcha was indispensable.

What's even more wonderful is that both Aki and Cole are knowledgeable about art. Aki studied Philosophy and art, while Cole is a professional ink painter. Although American, Cole is passionate about Eastern culture and eager to learn traditional Chinese and Japanese painting techniques. He has exhibited his paintings in both the US and Japan. One of his special solo exhibitions was titled...The Breath of ExistenceIt took place at the Gyokusenji Zen Monastery in Tokyo in 2017. The couple also gave me a tour of Cole's studio and we talked about art until well past midnight without running out of things to say.

Cole shared: “Our works revolve around life and spirit. We collaborate closely with people and nature to express something profound and authentic. Ome is the perfect place to create this type of art. Every day, nature and the expansive Zen community bring beauty, peace, and inspiration. Ome is a sanctuary for artists and artisans. We initially came to Ome to learn about traditional art, and our works have evolved and transformed in this beautiful place.”

(“Our work focuses on life and spirit. We work closely with people and with nature to express something deep and true. Ome is a perfect place to create this type of art. Nature and an open Zen community bring beauty, peace, and inspiration daily. Ome is a haven for artists and craftspeople. We originally came to Ome to study traditional arts and our work continues to grow and transform in this beautiful place.)

So, I can sense the Zen atmosphere in simple everyday things, like sipping green tea in a quiet space, and contemplating ink paintings with friends.

Monshuin Monastery is a serene and tranquil place.

On the short walk from my friend's house to Monshuin Zen Monastery, I breathed in the fresh air and witnessed the peaceful life of the Japanese countryside. "Rural" in comparison to big cities like Tokyo, though; their houses were well-maintained, the roads were good, and their fields were meticulously cared for—nothing like the rustic charm of Vietnamese countryside. We even encountered a neighbor tending his fields, and he greeted us warmly.

As soon as I stepped into the grounds of Monshuin Zen Monastery, I was immediately overwhelmed by the breathtaking scenery, which seemed to belong to another world. The neatly trimmed trees, the lush green lawns, and the small landscapes with gently flowing water instantly filled me with a strange sense of peace. My favorite was the koi pond hidden behind the monastery. The sunlight shone on the pond and reflected off the foliage, creating a shimmering, magical effect. It seemed as if all the worries and stresses of life vanished, simply by immersing myself in this beautiful natural setting.

The interior architecture of the Zen monastery is exquisitely beautiful, with a spacious and airy atmosphere that feels close to nature, giving one the sensation of being outdoors. Inside, a painting by Cole depicting a beautiful turquoise bird hangs, perfectly complementing the serene and elegant atmosphere of the monastery. The abbot, Masaya Tanaka, was very amiable; he offered me pastries and tea and conversed with me in English. Despite his age, he diligently studied English and even played the guitar. His cheerful and optimistic spirit made everyone who met him feel at ease. He was also a master of calligraphy, so Aki and Cole often sought his guidance. The continued existence of Monshuin Zen Monastery to this day is largely thanks to his care and dedication.

A peaceful haven on Mount Mitake

On my last day in Ome, I decided to visit Mount Mitake. The train ride from Ome Station to Mitake Station only takes about 16 minutes. Before taking the cable car up to Mitake, Aki took me on a tour of the Mitake Valley, where the Tama River flows nearby. The scenery was picturesque, like a watercolor painting. Aki told me that the beautiful nature here has inspired many artists.

Afterward, I took a bus to the cable car station and went up the mountain alone. From the cable car down, I still had to walk for about 30 minutes to reach the summit at an altitude of 929 meters. On the way up, I saw a very unusual white and purple flower, somewhat resembling a miniature lotus, and even saw a poster advertising it. It turns out that September is the flowering season.reign shoma, a famous flower of Mount Mitake.

The 2,000-year-old Musashi Mitake Shrine atop the mountain is a wolf shrine, as it is said that around the year 150, the spirit of O-Inu-Sama transformed into a white wolf to save Prince Yamata Takeru from evil spirits. The shrine complex is beautiful with many exquisite details, feeling like the setting of a Studio Ghibli film. I went on a weekday, so it was quite empty; I was the only person there, which made me feel the sacredness of the place even more strongly. That feeling of peace mixed with a touch of mystery was truly precious! For me, Zen is simply moments of tranquility, free from worries and anxieties, and knowing how to fully enjoy each moment. While on top of Mount Mitake, I completely understood what Zen is.

Other memorable experiences in Ome

Ome is a truly nostalgic city. I still vividly remember the meticulously hand-drawn movie posters; you could feel the artist's deep emotions. Perhaps it was the first time I'd ever seen a hand-drawn movie poster in person, from the 1950s. There are about 100 such large posters in Ome's old town. Or take the traditional Seiryu Kibako inn near Ome station, with its vintage decor creating a cozy and nostalgic atmosphere.

The small community in Ome is very friendly. Aki and Cole are actively involved in community activities, even running English and art classes. Thanks to their good connections, I was able to interact with many local people in Ome, including dancer Keiko Iida and her daughter Noriko Harashima. Both mother and daughter are masters of tea ceremony, ikebana flower arrangement, and traditional kimono. They let me try on a furisode, designing a unique and elaborate bow-shaped obi for me. Noriko enthusiastically told me about the history of kimonos and explained that the neckline is open because, according to Japanese tradition, the nape is the most beautiful part of a woman's body.

Although the people of Ome live in a city that seems quite isolated from the world, they are actually very welcoming to foreigners and eager to learn about other cultures. Knowing that my major is Art History, they invited me to present my graduation thesis as well as about Vietnamese art. Thanks to them, I had unique experiences in Ome and a very positive impression of Japan.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Artist Cole Norton

Cole Norton was born in 1985 in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. His style combines Western Impressionism with Chinese and Japanese ink painting. He is a student of Hakuro, a Chinese-born ink painter currently residing in Tokyo. Cole focuses on drawing the human body and has taught this art form at the Milwaukee Institute of Art and Design.

- Website of artist Cole Norton:http://colenortonart.com

Zen

Zen, meaning "meditation" in Japanese, is a school of Mahayana Buddhism in Japan that emphasizes the value of enlightenment through meditation and intuition, rather than through reading Buddhist scriptures.

- Zen in Vietnamese is "Thiền tông". Within Zen Buddhism, the Caodong school is the largest. Followers of this school seek to learn how to fully enjoy each moment through meditation, rather than directly seeking enlightenment.

- In English, Zen also refers to a state of relaxation and inner peace, even in the face of adversity.

Monshuin Monastery

- The full English name of the Zen monastery is "Mt. Kurosawa Sōtō Zen Monshuin Temple," founded around 1532 and belonging to the Soto Zen sect. After two major fires, the monastery was completely destroyed and rebuilt in 1850.

Some kimono terminology

- Furisode is a long-sleeved kimono worn by unmarried young women on formal occasions. The two most common types of furisode are ofurisode and chufurisode.

- Ofurisode: a long-sleeved kimono that almost touches the ground, worn for weddings or important occasions.

- Chufurisode: a short-sleeved kimono usually worn during the coming-of-age ceremony when young women turn 20. The process of putting on a furisode is very elaborate, requiring two people to do it for 30-40 minutes.

- Obi: a type of sash or belt.

- Musubi: the obi knot.

Tran Dan Vy