Peking duck: A journey from imperial cuisine to the world stage.

Peking duck, a culinary masterpiece with its golden, crispy skin and tender, flavorful meat, represents the sophistication, class, and masterful artistry of Chinese cuisine, telling a long story of history, culture, and the meticulous work of the chef.

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From Jiangnan to the capital

Interestingly, despite its name "Beijing," this famous roast duck dish did not originate in the northern capital. Ducks, by their very nature, are not as common as pigs, chickens, or sheep in this arid region. Traditional Chinese duck dishes often originate from the fertile Jiangnan region, where flocks of ducks roam freely in rice paddies and ponds, and are prepared into rustic yet exquisite dishes such as Nanjing salted duck or Hangzhou duck soup.

Historically, roast duck originated in Hangzhou in the 13th century, initially sold by street vendors. Gradually, it became a specialty of Nanjing, the first capital of the Ming dynasty.

It wasn't until after 1420, when Emperor Yongle moved the capital to Beijing, that roast duck, following the imperial family and court chefs, appeared there. Initially, it was still called "Jinling roast duck" (Jinling being the ancient name of Nanjing). However, over time, talented chefs in Beijing successfully bred a local duck breed with snow-white feathers, thin skin, and tender meat, considered far superior to the Nanjing duck, thus laying the foundation for the famous "Beijing White Duck" of today.

The craftsmanship behind the crispy skin.

To create a perfect Peking duck, every step requires meticulous attention to detail and masterful technique. White Peking ducks, typically raised in the suburbs and carefully fattened, undergo an elaborate preparation process. After thorough cleaning and plucking, air is skillfully pumped between the skin and meat to create a puffy texture, resulting in a crispy skin when roasted. Next, the skin is blanched in boiling water to firm it, then naturally air-dried, and finally brushed with a special malt syrup to create a glossy, reddish-brown color. Another secret to keeping the duck meat juicy and flavorful is that chefs often pour a small amount of boiling water inside the duck before placing it in the oven.

Peking duck is roasted using two main methods, each with its own unique characteristics. The open oven method (Gualu) is the traditional method, where the duck is hung on a metal rack inside a wood-fired oven using fruit trees such as jujube, pear, or date at high temperatures. The chef must constantly rotate the duck to ensure even cooking, and add wood 5-6 times throughout the roasting process, allowing the duck meat to absorb the delicate aroma of the fruit. This technique was developed by chefs in the imperial kitchens of the Forbidden City, where the Qing Dynasty particularly favored roasted meats. Historical records even state that in 1761, Emperor Qianlong enjoyed Peking duck eight times in just two weeks, demonstrating the irresistible appeal of this dish.

Additionally, the enclosed oven method (Menlu), an earlier technique originating in Nanjing, involves chefs lighting a fire in the center of the oven until only embers remain, then hanging four ducks in the oven door and sealing it shut. This method maintains high humidity inside the oven, resulting in tender, juicy duck meat with the skin still firmly attached to the meat. The enclosed oven is also suitable for roasting multiple ducks at once.

In the late 19th century, a poultry merchant named Yang Quanren introduced the open-air oven technique from the imperial court to the common people. After years of selling ducks and chickens at a street stall, in 1864 he opened Quanjude Restaurant – one of the most famous Peking duck brands today, employing former imperial chefs. Quanjude's roast duck, with its glossy skin and juicy meat, quickly became a favorite among the city's elite and literati. Having weathered the ups and downs of 20th-century Chinese history, Quanjude has become one of Beijing's leading culinary brands, a must-visit destination for tourists.

Enjoying Peking duck is not just a meal, but also participating in a captivating culinary ritual. At renowned restaurants, chefs in pristine white uniforms push a cart to the table, on which sits a plump duck with a glossy, caramel-colored skin. With a specialized long knife and rectangular blade, they skillfully slice the duck right at the table into over 100 perfectly uniform pieces, including both crispy skin and tender meat. Luxury restaurants even offer "all-duck feasts," preparing every part of the duck, from heart and gizzard to bones, into various dishes, elevating the culinary experience to an art form. The dish is captivating in both flavor and presentation, making it impossible for diners to look away.

Over the centuries, Peking duck has transcended China's borders, becoming an international culinary icon. It serves as a cultural ambassador, showcasing the essence of Chinese cuisine to friends around the world and is beloved in many countries. Peking duck restaurants have sprung up in numerous major cities, attracting both locals and tourists seeking an authentic Chinese culinary experience.

However, in the modern context, some Chinese food critics have expressed concern about the declining quality of Peking duck, even in once-famous restaurants. The main reason given is the use of conventional ovens instead of traditional wood-fired ovens, which diminishes the distinctive flavor and perfect crispness of the duck skin. Nevertheless, it cannot be denied that the popularity of Peking duck businesses in many cities has brought this once-elite dish closer to the general public, making it an indispensable part of the diverse culinary landscape of China and the world.

Khanh Linh