When you see flowers, they bloom; when you see snow, they melt.

06/03/2020

The first time I saw the photos of the apricot blossom hills in Yili, I promised myself I would come here, to the "ten-mile apricot blossom forest," to this barren, rocky place, with its vast deserts, yet producing countless wondrous beauties...

Xinjiang, a name originating from the Qing Dynasty, is transliterated from Chinese as Xinjiang, meaning "New Borderland," reflecting the expansion of the Qing Dynasty's territory at that time. Located in northwestern China, bordering Russia, Mongolia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Afghanistan, Pakistan, and India, Xinjiang is home to many different ethnic groups such as Uyghurs, Han, Kazakhs, Hui, Kyrgyz, and Mongols, but the main religion practiced by the people here is Islam.

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KASHGAR, AN OASIS IN THE DESERT

Our journey began with long flights from Hanoi to Kashgar, one of the world's oldest cities, over 2,000 years old, located in southwestern Xinjiang. More than 1,000 years ago, Kashgar was a beautiful oasis on the Silk Road and also the capital of the Uyghur people, the birthplace of the legendary Hàm Hương.

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When visiting Kashgar, you can't miss the livestock market held every Sunday, where farmers bring their buffaloes, cows, sheep, goats, etc., to buy and sell in the traditional way. And don't forget to visit Kashgar Old Town, admire the ancient Uyghur architecture, try a skewer of flavorful Xinjiang grilled lamb, buy a freshly baked naan bread, participate in a tea party with lively folk music, and watch Uyghur girls twirling in their red dresses... Walking along the streets of Kashgar Old Town, admiring the millennia-old traces on the rooftops, watching locals selling products from carpets, household goods, spices, or small decorative items made of stone..., at times I felt that a thousand years had passed, yet everything seemed to remain as it was in the beginning.

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Leaving Kashgar, we traveled along the Karakoram Highway, often called the eighth wonder of the world, to Tashkurgan, a small town situated near the border of Afghanistan and Tajikistan, and also close to the borders of Kyrgyzstan and Pakistan. It was early April, the beginning of spring. On the high mountain peaks, snow still blanketed the landscape, and Lake Karukal remained semi-frozen, its clear water reflecting the high, blue sky, creating a magical scene. Along the roadside, delicate white apricot blossoms mingled with newly sprouted shrubs after the snowmelt, and occasionally a herd of yaks or sheep grazed peacefully under the trees. The weather in Kashgar is as capricious as a 17-year-old girl – one day it's sunny with a clear blue sky, the next it's a desert sandstorm, with dust swirling everywhere.

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TEN THOUSAND MILES OF FLOWERS AND HAPPINESS IN YINING

Returning to Kashgar for our next flight, we arrived at Hanh Hoa Coc in Yili, Yining. Yili is located in the Ili River basin north of the Tian Shan Mountains, and its population is mainly Uyghur and Kazakh. During the Tang Dynasty, the Silk Road, after leaving Dunhuang, could also bypass the Taklamakan Desert to reach Persia (modern-day Iran). Yili was also the westernmost point of China during the Qing Dynasty.

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Unlike other areas in Xinjiang, where the land is barren and rocky, Yining is enriched by the alluvial soil of the Yili River, with vast stretches of lush green fields, ideal for agriculture and livestock farming. Apricot Blossom Valley in Yili, Yining, is a valley of apricot blossoms, planted by young Chinese people during the Cultural Revolution and becoming a popular tourist destination in the last 10 years. Unfortunately, due to the extremely hot weather, the blossoms bloomed earlier than expected this year; by the time we arrived at Apricot Blossom Valley, the hills were already in the process of fading. However, we were fortunate to find a smaller Apricot Blossom Valley nearby thanks to the help of our enthusiastic driver.

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The apricot blossom hill we found was little known to tourists, so the whole team had quite a hard time finding our way up. But our efforts were well worth it. Sitting under a large apricot tree in full bloom and looking down into the valley, I felt like I was standing in the peach forest of Zhe Yan in Tang Qi Gongzi's novel "Three Lives, Three Worlds, Ten Miles of Peach Blossoms." The apricot blossoms in Yining are quite special; when they first bloom, they are a pale pink, then gradually turn white, so the trees with their pink and white blossoms intertwined create a scene like a paradise.

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Located more than 120 km from Yining city is Lake Sayram (in Kazakh, Sayram means "blessing"). According to local beliefs, this lake symbolizes love, the tears of a separated couple, and a sparkling jewel nestled at the foot of snow-capped mountains. The architecture of the tourist area near the lake is influenced by Russian and Kazakh cultures, resembling a small European village. The entire resort is constructed of pine wood, giving off a fragrant woody scent.

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Xinjiang is one of China's five autonomous regions. Unlike Tibet, where you need a permit and must go through a travel agency, most tourist destinations in Xinjiang allow foreign tourists to travel freely with just a visa. However, you will frequently be checked by the police for passports, personal information, and itineraries. During a single day of travel, you might have to visit a police station 3-4 times, and completing the procedures can be quite time-consuming. The police station in Sayram left the most positive impression on me, thanks to the friendliness and hospitality that transcended language barriers.

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A HIDDEN PARADISE IN KANAS

Leaving eastern Xinjiang, we continued our journey north to the Kanas Nature Reserve and Hemu Village. Kanas is known for Lake Kanas, a crescent-shaped lake nestled in a valley surrounded by the Altay Mountains. After the ice melts, the lake's water turns a turquoise color. It is the deepest freshwater lake in China and was formed over 200,000 years ago. Kanas, meaning "mysterious beauty" in Mongolian, is so named because the lake is often shrouded in mist. From Moon Bay, you can admire the Kanas Glacier winding through the poplar forests like an emerald green silk ribbon draped across the mountains.

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Nestled deep within the Kanas Nature Reserve is Hemu Village, one of the most beautiful villages in China. Hemu Village is isolated and secluded from other areas, like a hidden paradise. We arrived when the snow had almost completely melted, outside of peak season, so there were relatively few tourists, which helped preserve the village's peaceful atmosphere.

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Spending a morning sipping coffee in a wooden house by a babbling stream, everything calmed down after a long journey. In the afternoon, we walked up to the observation deck to watch the sunset and the smoke rising from the houses. The houses in Hemu are entirely made of wood, from the roofs and walls to the nails. In particular, the walls are constructed from stacked logs 30 or 40 cm in diameter, making the house both warm and damp. The entrance to the house always faces east. When building a new house, the homeowner places a white curtain on the beams to pray for peace – this is also a distinctive cultural feature of the Tuvas people, the main inhabitants of Hemu village.

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At this time, the snow had almost completely melted, so we were fortunate to see Hoa Moc village covered in white snow, like a fairytale land. Yellow flowers blooming along the hillsides signaled the arrival of spring, and our journey was nearing its end.

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If you're in Xinjiang, spend a day in Urumqi. Morning is the perfect time to visit the bazaar, where you can find famous local specialties like red apples and grapes. Thanks to its geographical location far from the sea, as well as its unique soil and farming methods, Xinjiang's red apples and grapes are exceptionally sweet and high-quality. In Xinjiang, when the apples and grapes ripen, they are left on the trees until the desert winds dry them out, then the roots are shaken to make them fall and be harvested – this is another unique aspect that makes Xinjiang's red apples superior to those from other regions.

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Spend the remaining half day visiting the Urumqi Museum, which recreates the history and culture of this unique region. And don't forget to visit the second floor of the museum to see the mummy area, which displays hundreds of mummies unearthed in Xinjiang, especially the famous "Loulan Beauty" mummy, along with a series of other mummies excavated in Xinjiang.

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Xinjiang is a place you shouldn't miss. Whether you're a nature lover or a culture enthusiast, you should visit at least once in your life to see its diversity and uniqueness compared to other regions of China.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Visa:China issues a standard visa valid for 3 months, allowing single or multiple entries with stays of 15-30 days per visit. If your trip is longer, consider a 6-month or 1-year visa with no entry restrictions.

Trip:There are no direct flights from Vietnam to Urumqi, the capital of Xinjiang; you usually have to make a layover in another city in China. We chose China Southern Airlines, flying from Hanoi to Kashgar and back from Urumqi to Hanoi; we booked domestic tickets through Chinese websites such as http://www.chinatraveldepot.com (English available), http://www.qnuar.cn (Chinese only), or via WeChat.

Time:If you enjoy seeing snow and apricot blossoms, you should visit in late March or early April. You can visit Xinjiang in the summer to see lavender, but autumn is the most beautiful season in Xinjiang. Summer and autumn are peak tourist seasons in Xinjiang, so travel prices are about one and a half times higher than in other seasons.

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Means of transportation:Except for the domestic flight from Kashgar to Yining, we hired a car for the entire trip. You can use the train to travel from Urumqi to Kashgar or Yining; and between Kashgar and Yining.

Cuisine: The Kashgar region is predominantly Muslim, so lamb and naan bread are common dishes; however, you can easily find a Chinese restaurant in Xinjiang. You can also bring dried food from Vietnam, but be aware of the food regulations that vary depending on the period of entry.

Skin: Due to temperature variations of up to 20 degrees Celsius in Xinjiang.oSince it's important to dress in layers between day and night to easily adjust to the temperature difference.

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Money: Xinjiang uses the yuan at an exchange rate of 3,400 VND/yuan. Note that you should only bring yuan, or Visa or Mastercard, not US dollars, as it is very difficult to exchange money in China.

Other notes:

- For other areas in Xinjiang, you only need a Chinese visa to visit, but Taskgurgan requires a separate permit. For this area, you must contact tour companies to apply for the permit. This area is also located at an altitude of over 3,000 meters, so some people may experience mild altitude sickness.

Not all hotels in Xinjiang allow foreigners to stay, so you should check the information carefully before booking.

- Urumqi Airport in Xinjiang does not allow passengers to stay overnight at the airport, but airlines provide hotel and airport-to-hotel transportation for passengers whose flights arrive after 1 AM and depart the same morning. You can register in advance with the airline or register with your boarding pass at the airport after landing to receive this assistance.

Trip cost: The average cost per day in Xinjiang (excluding airfare) is 1,000,000 VND per person. The total cost for a 15-day trip is 34,000,000 VND.

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Dang Thao
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