A hidden treasure nestled between snow-capped mountains and deserts.

Land of peace

A vast and remote region of Spain, Aragon, located south of the Pyrenees – the natural border between France and the Iberian Peninsula – is rarely visited by large tour groups. Nature lovers often come here alone or in small groups to enjoy the tranquil mountains and forests, follow streams flowing from enchanting blue glaciers, and wander through hills covered in white almond blossoms in spring. Those who appreciate ancient architecture will be captivated by the picturesque villages, and will travel long distances to visit remote monasteries and Romanesque castles perched on the hillsides.

I love Aragon for its tranquil charm. The landscape is tinged with a nostalgic gray, like an old postcard tucked into a faded book. Here, amidst vast nature and open spaces, one feels as if they are living outside of time. On the pristine rocky slopes, one can still hear the songs of shepherds and the barking of dogs herding sheep down the mountain. Rosemary and thyme fill the highlands with their fragrance, beneath the shade of centuries-old oak trees. Trails lead to small villages along the streams. Smoke from hearths blends with the fading afternoon sun. Simple and peaceful.

Since my first visit to Aragon many years ago, I have returned in every season. However, I am certain I have yet to fully appreciate the nuances of this land, both simple and mysterious. The Spanish call the mountainous region north of Aragon (in the province of Huesca) "terra bravia"—the wilderness. Peaks reaching approximately 3,000 meters, along with icy glaciers, gently slope down the southern slopes of the Pyrenees. Further south, towards the center of Spanish territory, the mountains and forests are increasingly replaced by shrubs and sand in perpetually arid deserts.

The villages were submerged.

My weekend in Aragon usually begins at the French border. Winding mountain passes take me across the Pyrenees into Spain. While both Southern France and Northern Spain have warm climates, from late autumn to the end of spring, the Pyrenees are a world of snow. Even so, the cold snow and ice have never deterred me from visiting Aragon.

Across the border, following the Cinca River south towards the city of Barbastro, you will be captivated by the emerald green of two large artificial lakes, Mediano and Grado. Their mesmerizingly deep blue surface reflects the southernmost peaks of the Pyrenees. Being hydroelectric lakes, the water levels of Mediano and Grado fluctuate throughout the year, rising in spring as the snow melts and receding under the scorching desert sun of midsummer.

Gazing at Lake Mediano, one might not imagine that its calm, mirror-like surface holds so many memories for the local people. Five villages, including Mediano, were forever submerged beneath the lake in 1973 when the hydroelectric dam on the Cinca River was completed and put into operation. Occasionally, during drought years, one can still see the bell tower and parts of Mediano village – now abandoned houses – floating on the lake's surface. From the mountain trails, churchyards, and the eaves of houses higher up on the hillside, one can be captivated by the picturesque landscape – beautiful yet tinged with sadness, as if the regrets of the past still linger with the passage of time.

And ancient architecture

Not only is Aragon attractive for its natural landscapes, but it is also a treasure trove of charming ancient architecture. Alquézar is a very small village – with just over 300 inhabitants – nestled in a secluded spot on the edge of the vast Sierra de Guara National Park, west of Lake Mediano. The place is imbued with a silvery hue, incredibly rustic and simple.

Each visit brings back the same quaint, contemplative village perched on a hilltop, nestled in a perfect natural landscape. Alquézar overlooks the Río Vero, a crystal-clear river that meanders through the majestic limestone formations of the Sierra de Guara, eroding them into deep gorges – a paradise for explorers, canyoners, and hikers.

The name Alquézar originates from the Arabic word “al-qasr,” meaning fortress, marking the presence of Muslims in Aragon more than ten centuries ago. Today, the Moorish castle atop the hill no longer exists. Surrounding the ruins of the former castle are the ramparts and watchtowers of the 16th-century Knights' Church. Below, sloping gently down the windswept hillside, ancient houses are clustered together along winding narrow lanes, leading us on a journey through time spanning thousands of years.

In the early morning, the first rays of sunlight peek through the stone walls of the Sierra de Guara, gradually awakening the slumbering village. It's even more beautiful if you visit in late February, just as spring begins and the almond blossoms are in full bloom. The spectacular blend of magical pink light at dawn, the majestic landscape, the breathtaking scenery, and the dreamy colors of the flowers will surely captivate you. Then, as the evening begins to fall, Alquézar enters its most romantic moment of the day. From the church's ramparts atop the hill overlooking the houses below, or from the parking lot on the opposite hillside facing the village and olive groves, every view is breathtaking.

About an hour's drive from Alquézar lies Loarre, a castle described as "massive, unique, and invincible." Built in the early 11th century, Loarre served to protect the surrounding villages from Muslim attacks. On clear days, from here one can overlook the entire plain below, and even see the bell towers of the Church of Our Lady of Zaragoza nearly 100 km away. With its very high walls, nine sturdy watchtowers, and countless staircases, Loarre was designed for optimal defense, to the point that no one has ever dared to attack it.

By the end of the 11th century, Loarre gradually became a monastery and was finally abandoned in the 15th century. Perhaps it was this "forgetfulness" that saved Loarre and helped the castle remain intact to this day. Here, one can comfortably admire the Romanesque castle with its watchtowers, tiny windows, and sturdy stone walls standing alone on the hilltop, amidst gardens of white-blooming almond trees, dreamlike, as if belonging to a bygone dream.

From Loarre, it's just an hour's drive to San Juan de la Peña – Aragon's most remarkable monastery and a treasure from the Middle Ages. Nestled deep in the rugged mountains, this monastery was the heart of the Pyrenees Christian faith during a time when the entire Iberian Peninsula was under Arab Muslim rule.

The oldest part, the royal monastery of San Juan de la Peña, houses the tombs of the kings of Aragon and Navarre. The monastery is very small, nestled in a natural cave, thus remaining remarkably well-preserved despite its 1,000-year age. The monastery's courtyard, only a few dozen square meters, contains a variety of architectural styles: Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque. The columns erected in the courtyard, depicting key biblical stories, are not only artistic but also served as an open book, teaching ancient legends to illiterate people, like much of the European population at the time.

Aragon, with all the light and dark shades of its historical depth, with all the peaceful and wild nuances of nature, has slowly made me fall in love with this land. Each return is a new discovery. It's incredibly tranquil yet profoundly moving, emanating from unique characteristics found only in this place nestled between the snow-capped mountains and the deserts of Spain.

Additional information

Visa:You will need to apply for a Spanish visa or use a Schengen visa for this trip.

Trip:There are no direct flights from Hanoi/Ho Chi Minh City to Zaragora; you'll usually need to make 2-3 connecting flights. You'll need to fly to Madrid or Barcelona, ​​then take a train to Zaragora, and from there rent a car to explore the Aragon region.

Time: Aragon is at its most beautiful in spring (late February - late May) and autumn (September - November). Summers are very hot and winters in the mountainous region are harsh. The almond blossom season in Aragon is also around the last two weeks of February to the first two weeks of March – the most wonderful time to visit this region. The areas with the most almond orchards are around Alquézar, Loarre Castle, and Riglos. You should call the local tourist offices, for example, those of Alquézar (+34 974318940), Loarre Castle (+34 974342161), or Huesca, to get updates on the blossom situation.

Move:Except for Zaragoza, the remaining areas north of Aragon on the southern slopes of the Pyrenees are very remote, so to follow the suggested itinerary above you need to know how to drive. You can rent a car in one of the southern French cities (Toulouse, Pau, Tarbes, etc.) or from Zaragoza.

Cuisine: When visiting Spain, you absolutely must try tapas at least once. Zaragoza is home to some of the best tapas restaurants.

Accommodation:

- Camping: Visiting Aragon is all about connecting with nature, so I often choose camping. It costs around 20-30 EUR per tent per night for two people. All camping equipment must be brought by yourself. Local campsites offer both tent and bungalow spaces, hot and cold water, power outlets in bathrooms, and some even have swimming pools.

- Hotels: You can book rooms in the areas around Alquézar, Huesca, or Zaragoza; choose rooms with a rating of 8/10 or higher.

Other notes:

- If you plan to cross the Pyrenees in the snow, you should prepare chains for your vehicle, in case the roads become icy.

- It's necessary to check the road conditions before traveling, especially for tunnels through mountains which are sometimes closed in winter due to avalanches.

- Roads in the northern Aragon region are free, and gasoline in Spain is about 10-15% cheaper than in France.

Bui Huyen Chi