“Treasure” hidden between snowy mountains and deserts

Peaceful land

A remote and vast region of Spain, Aragon lies south of the Pyrenees – the natural border between France and the Iberian Peninsula – and is rarely visited by tour groups. Nature lovers often come here alone or in small groups to enjoy the quiet mountains and forests, follow the streams flowing from the enchanting blue glaciers, and wander the hills of white almond blossoms in spring. Meanwhile, lovers of ancient architecture will be captivated by the poetic small villages, not minding the long journey to visit the remote monasteries and Romanesque castles on the mountainside.

I love Aragon for the quietness of this land. The landscape here is dyed in a nostalgic gray color, like an old postcard tucked into a faded book. Here, amidst the vast nature and open space, people seem to live outside of time. On the wild rocky slopes, we can still hear the singing of shepherds, the sound of dogs herding sheep down the mountain. Rosemary and thyme spread their fragrance on the plateaus, under the shade of hundred-year-old oak trees. Trails lead us to small villages by the stream. Blue smoke from the kitchen blends with the fading afternoon sun. Simple and peaceful.

Since my first visit to Aragon many years ago, I have been back here in all seasons. However, I am sure that I have not yet seen all the nuances of this simple and mysterious land. The Spanish still call the mountainous area north of Aragon (in the province of Huesca) “terra bravia” – the wild land. The peaks of approximately 3,000 m and the cold glaciers gradually slope down the southern slopes of the Pyrenees. As you go south, towards the center of Spain, the high mountains and forests are replaced by scrub and sand in the year-round dry desert.

Villages submerged

My weekend in Aragon usually begins at the French border. Winding mountain passes take me across the Pyrenees into Spain. While southern France and northern Spain have warm climates, the Pyrenees are a world of snow from late autumn through spring. Yet, snow and ice have never stopped me from visiting Aragon.

Across the border, following the banks of the Cinca River south towards the city of Barbastro, you will be captivated by the emerald green of two enormous artificial lakes, Mediano and Grado. The lakes are a mesmerizing blue, reflecting the southernmost peaks of the Pyrenees. As hydroelectric lakes, the water levels of Mediano and Grado change with the seasons, rising in the spring when the snow melts and then falling as the hot desert sun bakes in midsummer.

Looking at Lake Mediano, one would never have thought that the still, mirror-like water would hide many memories of the people in the area. Five villages, including Mediano, have been forever submerged at the bottom of the lake since 1973, when the hydroelectric dam on the Cinca River was completed and put into operation. Occasionally, during drought years, one can see the bell tower and part of Mediano - now abandoned houses, floating on the lake's surface. From the mountain trails, churchyards and the porches of houses higher up on the hillside, one can gaze in ecstasy at the charming landscape - beautiful but somewhat sad, as if the regrets of the past still exist in the flow of time.

And ancient architecture

Not only attractive for its natural landscape, Aragon is also a treasure trove of charming ancient architecture. Alquézar is a very small village - with just over 300 inhabitants, located in the remote area on the edge of the vast Sierra de Guara National Park, west of Lake Mediano. This place is imbued with the color of silver soil, extremely rustic and simple.

Each time I visit, I find the same quaint, pensive hilltop village in a perfect natural setting. Alquézar overlooks the Río Vero, a crystal-clear river that winds through the majestic limestone cliffs of the Sierra de Guara, carving deep canyons – a paradise for adventurers, canyoners and hikers.

The name Alquézar comes from the Arabic word “al-qasr,” meaning fortress, and marked the Muslim presence in Aragon more than 10 centuries ago. Today, the Moorish-style castle on the hilltop no longer exists. Surrounding the ruins of the old castle are the ramparts and watchtowers of a 16th-century Knights Templar church. Below, sloping down the windy hillside, ancient houses are lined up along winding alleys, taking us on a journey through thousands of years.

In the early morning, the rays of the morning sun flash from behind the stone walls of the Sierra de Guara, gradually awakening the sleeping village. It will be even more beautiful if you come here at the end of February, right at the beginning of spring, when the almond flowers are in full bloom. The spectacular harmony at dawn of the magical pink light, the majestic space, the overwhelming landscape and the dreamy colors of the flowers will surely make you ecstatic. Then, when the afternoon light begins to fall, Alquézar enters the most poetic time of the day. From the pedestal of the church on the hilltop looking down at the houses below, or from the parking lot on the opposite hillside facing the village and the olive groves, every angle is breathtakingly beautiful.

About an hour’s drive from Alquézar is Loarre, a castle described as “massive, unique and invincible.” Loarre was built in the early 11th century to protect the villages in the area from Muslim attacks. On a clear day, you can see the entire plain below, and even see the bell towers of the churches of Our Lady of Zaragoza, nearly 100 kilometers away. With its high walls, nine sturdy watchtowers and numerous staircases, Loarre was designed to be extremely defensive, to the point that no one has ever dared to attack Loarre.

By the end of the 11th century, Loarre gradually became a monastery and was finally abandoned in the 15th century. Perhaps it was this “forgetfulness” that saved Loarre and helped this castle to remain intact until today. Here, we can freely admire the Roman castle with its watchtowers, tiny windows and solid stone walls standing alone on the top of the hill, among the white almond gardens, wandering like belonging to a dream of ancient times.

From Loarre, just an hour’s drive takes you to San Juan de la Peña – Aragon’s most extraordinary monastery and medieval treasure. Nestled deep in the rugged mountains, this monastery was the heart of the Pyrenees’ Christian faith at a time when the entire Iberian Peninsula was under Muslim Arab rule.

The oldest part, the royal monastery of San Juan de la Peña, is where the tombs of the kings of Aragon and Navarre are located. The royal monastery is very small, hidden in a natural cave, thanks to which it is still quite intact despite its 1,000-year history. The courtyard of only a few dozen square meters of the monastery contains many different architectural styles: roman, gothic, baroque. The row of columns erected on the courtyard, carving the main allusions of the Bible, is not only artistic but also an open book, teaching ancient legends to people who could not read, like the majority of the European population at that time.

Aragon, with all the bright and dark patches of historical depth, with all the peaceful and wild shades of nature, has slowly made me fall in love with this land. Every time I return is a discovery. Very peaceful but extremely profound, spreading from the unique features that can only be found halfway between the snowy mountains and the Spanish desert.

More information

Visa:You need to apply for a Spanish visa or use a Schengen visa for this trip.

Trip:There are no direct flights from Hanoi/HCMC to Zaragoza, usually you will have to go through 2-3 connecting points. You need to take a flight to Madrid or Barcelona then take a train to Zaragoza, from there rent a car to explore the Aragon region.

Time: Aragon is at its best in spring (late February - late May) and autumn (September - November). Summers are very hot here and winters are harsh in the mountains. The last two weeks of February to the first two weeks of March are also the almond blossom season in Aragon - the most wonderful time to visit this land. The areas with the most almond orchards are around Alquézar, Loarre Castle and Riglos Village. You should call the tourist offices in the area, for example Alquézar Village (+34 974318940), Loarre Castle (+34 974342161) or Huesca City for updates on the blossoms.

Move:Except for Zaragoza, the rest of the areas north of Aragon on the southern slopes of the Pyrenees are so remote that you will need to know how to drive to follow the itinerary suggested above. You can rent a car in one of the southern French cities (Toulouse, Pau, Tarbes...) or from Zaragoza.

Cuisine: When in Spain, you can't miss trying tapas. Zaragoza is home to some of the best tapas.

Accommodation:

- Camping: Coming to Aragon is part of coming to nature, so I often choose camping. The price is about 20-30 EUR/tent/night for 2 people. All camping equipment must be brought by yourself. Campsites in the area have both tent and bungalow sites, hot and cold water, electrical outlets in the bathrooms and some places even have swimming pools.

- Hotels: You can book rooms in the area around Alquézar, Huesca or Zaragoza, choose a room rated 8/10 or higher.

Other notes:

- If you want to cross the Pyrenees in the snowy season, you should prepare chains for your vehicle in case the road gets icy.

- Check road conditions before going, especially as mountain tunnels are sometimes closed in winter due to avalanches.

- Roads in the northern region of Aragon are free and petrol in Spain is about 10-15% cheaper than in France.

Bui Huyen Chi