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About 10 years ago, Dong Hoi was merely a stopover for tourists exploring Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park. It wasn't until it was upgraded to the central city of Quang Binh province and many cultural and historical sites were developed for tourism that Dong Hoi began to attract tourists for longer stays. Even so, this city on the Nhat Le River still retains a quiet, tranquil atmosphere. Only at Dong Hoi market at dawn or in the late afternoon can visitors witness a different side of the city, more vibrant and imbued with the unique local character.
Dong Hoi Market is located right in the heart of Dong Hoi city, on the Nhat Le River and next to the Mother Suot monument, making it the city's largest market. Behind the market is a bustling fishing harbor with numerous boats. Twice a day, at dawn and in the late afternoon, all the large and small fishing boats, both offshore and inshore, gather here after each trip to unload their seafood and supply the city. Smaller boats dock almost daily, while larger boats only do so once every 10-15 days. Therefore, Dong Hoi Market is considered the main wholesale market and the largest seafood hub in Quang Binh province.
Dong Hoi Market is located right in the heart of Dong Hoi city, on the Nhat Le River and next to the Mother Suot monument, making it the city's largest market. Behind the market is a bustling fishing harbor with numerous boats. Twice a day, at dawn and in the late afternoon, all the large and small fishing boats, both offshore and inshore, gather here after each trip to unload their seafood and supply the city. Smaller boats dock almost daily, while larger boats only do so once every 10-15 days. Therefore, Dong Hoi Market is considered the main wholesale market and the largest seafood hub in Quang Binh province.
Although the afternoon market is when the fish market is busiest, with the most lively activity on the docks and boats, I love the early morning hours at this market even more. At that time, the early morning sunlight isn't harsh but gently spreads across the river. Most of the boats returning to the dock are small, making the place more picturesque and reducing the typical noise of the fish markets. Under the soft sunlight, the scales of the fish lying peacefully in the baskets gleam with a pleasing silvery white. The shoppers are mainly traders from nearby small markets or restaurant owners who come to the dock to buy ingredients for the day's cooking. Here and there, there are also locals who get up early to find fresh, slightly cheaper shrimp and fish for their family meals. The scene of buying and selling is both intimate and warm, filled with bright laughter.
Leaving the fish market and strolling slowly along the road in front of the market gate, you'll encounter rows of green vegetables spilling onto the street (I didn't see a single meat stall along this approximately 100-meter stretch of temporary market). There's a wide variety of produce harvested from home gardens (fresh or already processed for breakfast), not at all presented attractively like fruit and vegetable shops in big cities, but simply displayed on the sidewalk, with a piece of burlap sack or a bamboo/reed basket underneath.
Simple as it may seem, it will give visitors truly interesting experiences. You'll have the chance to see unusual fruits and vegetables; or be surprised to see jackfruit here sliced into rounds instead of cut horizontally or vertically as you're used to; or you'll laugh when you ask a question and receive a response in a local dialect so unfamiliar that you'll have to listen several times to understand even a little... Just feel free to chat, the locals will warmly answer you even if you don't intend to buy anything from them. A smile or a quiet thank you from you is enough for them.
Another interesting fact is that this fruit and vegetable stall only operates until around 7 a.m., after which it has to move inside the market to make way for traffic. So, if you want to experience a little bit of the fun here, wake up with the sunrise!
