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The village of Portmeirion in North Wales, built in the 1920s on the mouth of the Dwyryd River and nestled beneath the majestic Snowdonia mountains, fascinates many domestic and international visitors with its unique houses. They are painted in shades of pink, red, green, and tan, and each roof is designed in a different style, reflecting Jacobean, Gothic, Norwegian, and Regency architecture. The houses feature colors like pink, red, green, and earth tones, each roof having its own distinct shape. This contrasts sharply with the uniform architecture of traditional English villages.
Welsh architect Clough Williams Ellis is the "father" of this unique architectural project. Ellis was known as a successful man, but he received virtually no formal training. In Ellis's time, when Britain was finding its footing in the post-war era, aesthetics in architecture were not yet a priority. Many buildings were not beautifully constructed, and finding someone with a keen sense of aesthetics was extremely important.
Disgusted with the prevailing design style—functional and crude architecture—he yearned to create “buildings that were properly situated to enhance the beauty of the surrounding landscape.” Thus, in 1925, Ellis purchased a small plot of land on the outskirts of Snowdonia and began constructing breathtaking buildings to demonstrate his vision on the charming slopes leading to the river mouth.
The land Ellis acquired included an abandoned medieval mansion. He renovated and transformed the castle into a stunning hotel complex. He also turned the surrounding barns and outbuildings into interesting features of the hotel grounds.
Ellis's creativity was fully exploited in his projects. He only sketched out the ideas for the houses; all the remaining stages were left to the construction engineers to figure out how to bring them to life.
Most of the buildings in this village were newly constructed from old or war-damaged structures. After World War I and II, modernist architects demolished many of the heritage buildings. Ellis bought these buildings to "repurpose" them. He declared that Portmeirion would become "land for ruined buildings." For example, in the model of the village's town hall, he utilized the ceiling purchased from a house awaiting demolition.
The name Portmeirion, given by Ellis, means "Meirion port." The word "port" comes from the village's location on the banks of the River Dwyryd, while "Meirion" derives from Merionethshire, the name of the county where the village is located.
Clough Williams Ellis
Ellis's wife, Amabel, was well-connected with London's literary and artistic circles and managed to invite many famous people to visit the village. Among them were playwright George Bernard Shaw, novelist H. G. Wells, architect Frank Lloyd Wright, and director Noël Coward. In addition, there was Edward, then Prince of Wales.
When Prince Edward visited the village in 1943, Ellis had a private room added to the hotel and temporarily increased the entrance fee to one pound (approximately 35,000 VND) to reduce the number of visitors.
During World War II, Portmeirion became a phenomenon and attracted so many visitors that Ellis had to buy a hotel in Shrewsbury, Shropshire's central market, to use as a rest stop along the way.
In the 1960s, the entrance fee to Portmeirion was divided depending on whether you were a resort guest, a yearly visitor, or a casual visitor. Prices could suddenly increase without notice if the number of visitors was too high that day. Ellis wanted visitors to feel comfortable and at home in the village.
Today, this village, often described as "the strangest in England," remains bustling with visitors. Delicious, high-class meals are still served with care in the hotel's Art Deco dining room. Everything remains as it was on the first day, but there are some notable changes: visitors are now treated more equally, as the price list for visitors has been removed.
“The village has always managed,” said writer Robin Llywelyn, grandson of William Ellis and the village’s chief administrator. “Many members of the family have always pursued their own agendas, but all have worked for the long-term benefit of Portmeirion.”
“My grandfather didn’t like the idea of Portmeirion becoming a dry architectural museum,” Llywelyn said. “He wanted it to be a place that inspires creativity in everyone, whether they are painters, writers, poets, musicians, or even architects – and above all, a place that brings joy and makes people happy,” Llywelyn said.
The richness and diversity of Portmeirion's architecture caught the attention of many film directors. Portmeirion was used as a backdrop for France in Brideshead Revisited, 1960s Italy in The Green Helmet, Renaissance Italy in Dr. Who, and even China in Danger Man. Two television series that further solidified Portmeirion's popularity in the UK – the science fiction series The Prisoner and the romantic drama Cold Feet – contributed to its sudden rise as a popular wedding location.
