Colors of India

31/10/2018

Although I've been back in Vietnam for a long time, the lingering effects of my lengthy trip to India still haunt me. Perhaps that's why it took me a whole year to sort through my emotions and impressions and finally release this photobook about the country. Every trip, every journey, brings different emotions.

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India is no exception; everything seems to be summed up in one word: "Extraordinary." Extraordinary because everything from the scenery to the people, customs, beliefs, food, and music is so "Indian" that it cannot be found, imitated, or blended anywhere else on the planet.

Perhaps that is why I, like millions who have had the opportunity to set foot in the cradle of human civilization – India – cannot fully explain my feelings, and I return with an unforgettable experience. It is an India full of pride, adorned with the vibrant colors of hundreds of festivals, thousands of Hindu devotees in magnificent attire. But it is also an India still marked by contradictions, with a clear division between humanity, divinity, and nature. It is a country where the gap between rich and poor is deeply etched.

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I chose the theme for my trip: "Colorful India." Perhaps I will never forget the "Yellow" of the old taxis (unique in India), or the trams jostling through the smoky and noisy city of Kolkata. The "Red" of the setting sun in Varanasi, where the mystical Ganges River has witnessed the baptisms of devout Hindus from birth to death for thousands of years. The "White" representing purity, power, and faithful love in the place that has astonished the world with its magnificence – the Taj Mahal in Arga. The "Blue" covering the undulating streets beneath the majestic fort in Jodpur. Or perhaps the "Orange" of the soil and sand in the barren, camel-strewn landscape of Jaisalmer, with its harsh climate. And the "Gray" hues of the dynamic and inclusive capital, Delhi… This vibrant country will welcome me back one day soon to fully capture all these distinctly Indian shades.

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Kolkata (Yellow) – A subtle scam

Kolkata (formerly known as Calcutta) wasn't the destination I had the highest expectations for on my trip. It was a necessary stop for the whole group to prepare for an exciting journey. If it weren't for the Jet Airways flight delay to Varanasi, I probably would never have understood or witnessed firsthand what a smoky city it was. I don't know whether to be grateful or resentful, but exploring Kolkata for a day was enough to inhale a considerable amount of smog, almost like midday fog. The city didn't greet us with enthusiastic applause, but with a cacophony of noise: car horns, shouting, and stalled vehicles – all quite impactful. On the way from the airport to Howrah train station, we witnessed countless people, their lives rushing by amidst the chaotic and congested traffic.

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I'm still shocked by the images of a city full of garbage, feces, and smog. I had never felt or imagined Kolkata like that (despite warnings from my Indian friends). Sitting in a yellow taxi – the only yellow taxi in India – and watching everything unfold like a fast-forwarded film amidst the throngs of people and vehicles on the streets, I saw farmers struggling to make a living in the city alongside the leisurely strolls of passersby. I saw countless slums surrounding the city, their faces etched with hardship.

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Before my eyes, I saw the remnants of British architecture. The marks of time were etched on the window frames, bearing the weight of years gone by. In the distance, horse-drawn carriages evoked memories of the golden age of the former monarchy, while somewhere else, the image of old trams jostled among the crowds. And from there, the image of the Howrah Bridge drew closer, signaling that I had arrived at the station, ending my two-hour wanderings in Kolkata.

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The way Kolkata welcomed us was truly unforgettable. There were tricks and deceptions, subtle yet painful. But the city continued to present its contrasting facets, and Kolkata will forever remain in my memory. There, I realized that sometimes, observing the slow pace of life allows one to discover hidden corners of the soul, and be amazed to find that life becomes more poetic amidst the most ordinary things. Don't complain or lament when there are unfortunate people and fates around you. Explore with your heart.

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Varanasi (Red) - The sound of prayers for the souls of the deceased

Varanasi is known as the spiritual city, the capital of light, and the center of India's highest thought and scholarship. It's one of the cities with the most "firsts." First, it's one of the oldest cities in India, and indeed the world. Second, it was once considered a sacred site of Buddhism. Third, it's a place thousands of Hindu devotees dream of visiting at least once in their lifetime, a city inextricably linked to the legendary Ganges River.

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It's certainly true that Varanasi is a holy site for Hinduism. Perhaps by chance, we had the opportunity to witness the largest religious ceremony in 50 years here. Because of this, the city dedicated a long stretch of road to pedestrian zones to welcome pilgrims. Varanasi became more bustling and crowded than usual; what was already crowded became even more so, creating a chaotic atmosphere.

A distinctive feature of these narrow streets is the vibrant colors of the paintings and advertisements, most of which are beautifully and impressively hand-painted. Trading, eating, and daily life take place simultaneously along the entire length of the street. As the pilgrims grew larger, we had to walk from the beginning of the street to try and squeeze our way into the center of Varanasi. I tried to blend in with the crowd like an ant, hoping to reach the hotel as quickly as possible. The three girls following behind me were probably exhausted from carrying so much luggage and trying to avoid stepping in cow dung.

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After completing all the check-in procedures at the hotel, my friends and I quickly rushed to the boat to catch the sunrise and admire the legendary Ganges River. Because the hotel was located near the river, getting there was quite convenient. A trip down the legendary river costs at least 100 Rs per person.

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This ancient city, over 5000 years old, is only now offering us the chance to immerse ourselves in its mysterious and ethereal atmosphere. Many have dreamed of visiting this river at least once in their lives to witness the daily prayers, cremations, and bathing, reflecting on spirituality and the grandeur of time. While there are two main bathing sessions each day, in the early morning and evening, devotees often spend the entire day bathing, right where the daily lives of the people continue, from washing clothes to performing religious rituals. All of this takes place at the Ghats (literally riverbanks), each with its own name given by kings or wealthy merchants. Therefore, a diverse architectural style is created around the Ganges River.

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Amidst all the vivid scenes of the city unfolding before my eyes, the most striking and captivating aspect was the sound of prayer. It wasn't the cremation or the bathing in the river, but the sound of the prayers that seemed to hold a part of my soul tightly bound to the Ganges River. I don't understand why. Perhaps a part of my consciousness has become attached to this sacred river?

And it's true, in all my dreams about India, the legendary Ganges River is also a place I long to visit. Perhaps I'm not brave enough to jump into the river and swim like Westerners, but for me, the Ganges has given me an indescribable feeling about a land, a river considered the ultimate destination for Hindu pilgrims.

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Ignoring the minor details and unpleasant sights like the foul smell, the crowds, and the unsanitary living conditions, Varanasi holds a sacred place for me. You must witness the sunrise or sunset here firsthand to quiet your mind, to return to the spiritual world, where humans are merely tiny grains of sand in the flow of time, where, upon death, people return to the vast and boundless self. It is also the flow of ethereal floating flower petals, along with the candlelight illuminating the entire stretch of river. It is a borderland between the earthly and the heavenly realms…

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Agra (White) - A place of love stories, where love is immortal, where you and I...

The city of Arga welcomed us while its inhabitants were still asleep. Amidst a hazy mist, the crisp morning air filled us travelers with a sense of wistfulness and longing.

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We didn't have as much time to explore Agra as we did in Varanasi, with only one day. Therefore, we had to choose the main tourist attractions to avoid wasting too much time. It's a shame we had to miss some places like Agra Fort, Sikandra, and Rambagh… but I promise myself I will return to explore these magnificent structures.

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Fatehpur Sikri was our first destination after a long 1 hour and 30 minute journey from Agra to this vast, abandoned city. Agra was once the capital of the Mughal dynasty, under King Akbar, but was later abandoned for unknown reasons. Interestingly, Buland Darwaza (Victory Gate) is considered the largest gate in Asia, leaving us speechless and only able to exclaim in our minds, "Wow, it's huge!"

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Built of red sandstone, with elaborate carvings, and blending Persian and Indian cultures, Buland Darwaza is a fusion of Hindu and Islamic cultural values. The architectural structures in Farehpur Sikri are considered the "City of All Time." Its exceptional value lies not only in its artistic merit but also in showcasing the boundless wealth of the dynasties and royal families, and the unparalleled power of the gods.

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The Taj Mahal – the greatest and most magnificent mausoleum of all time – is so famous that it is considered an iconic symbol of India, a place people dream of visiting at least once in their lifetime just to admire and contemplate…

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Words fail to describe the Taj Mahal; it is too magnificent, too grand. This majestic mausoleum, built of white marble – a symbol of purity – is a legacy of noble, splendid, and refined Indo-Islamic architecture.

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The passionate and proud love of King Shah Jahan for his late wife Mumtaz Mahal has become a famous love story in India and the world. Hundreds of years later, people still exclaim: "The Taj Mahal is the sanctuary of immortal love, the embodiment of eternal love, a tear on the cheek of time…" The Taj Mahal has captured the hearts of all humanity… It is the ultimate distillation, the exquisite blend of power and love. The story of this immortal love song, the Taj Mahal, remains a long tale passed down through generations to this day.

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Jodhpur (Blue) - City of the Sun.

Once again, we set off on the night train after a day exploring Agra. After a good night's sleep on the train, we were warmly welcomed at Jodhpur train station by Vinay's family (a kind Indian friend who helped us a lot on this trip, letting us stay overnight in Jodhpur). This warmed our hearts amidst the chilly, misty weather.

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On my way to the nearby parking lot, a rather disturbing sight caught my eye: hundreds of people waiting for the train lying along the corridor without any protective covering. How could they endure hours on the cold tiled floor like that? But it was the truth; the poor often had no other choice. I felt a pang of sadness and pity for these unfortunate souls. The harshness of the weather pales in comparison to the stark divide between rich and poor. India is beautiful, its architecture is beautiful, but the contrast between social classes still persists. Is it an invisible or visible boundary, a cold or warm face? That remains an answer that humanity has yet to reach.

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We stayed with Vinay's family. Their warmth and hospitality were evident in how they welcomed us, making us feel both happy and a little guilty for not bringing more gifts from Vietnam. Vinay's family is Buddhist; her father is a famous writer and highly respected in the region. Her mother and sister were lovely, showing us how to make Chai (Indian tea) and Roti, which was very interesting. I wonder if any of you who have traveled to India have had the chance to witness what Indian life is like?

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When you mention Jodhpur, tourists immediately think of it as the "City of the Sun" or "Blue City." I don't understand why it's called the City of the Sun. Is it because it's the most beautiful place to watch the sunset? The feeling of sipping a Chai while watching the sunset is absolutely amazing. I've watched sunsets in many places I've been to, but here it gives me an indescribable feeling. The cool evening air, the dazzling sunlight illuminating the entire landscape, and the undulating buildings painted in a distinctive sea-blue color create a vibrant picture with many different shades. I heard somewhere that, "There are beauties that should be appreciated rather than photographed." I don't know if I'm being accurate, but the beauty is truly beyond imagination, leaving me feeling exhilarated even now, thousands of miles away from India.

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Jaisalmer – An Incomplete Party

Like Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, located in Rajasthan, is one of the oldest cities in the desert region and possesses many unique cultural characteristics. Traveling between cities has become quite familiar to us. The distance from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer wasn't as far as I expected, but perhaps my companions and I were already quite tired from our days of wandering in this foreign land.

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Jaisalmer greeted us not with a glorious sunset or a clear sunrise, but with the biting cold of the middle of the night. With our hands clasped, we wandered through the vast, deserted city, searching for the supposedly beautiful hotel. Ah! Finally, paradise appeared before us. The magnificent hotel was situated in the heart of the Golden Fort on a hill in Trikuta. It was said to have belonged to a high-ranking official or general, hence its elaborate and meticulous construction, making it quite grand. Most of the architecture in this region is made of golden sandstone, blending with the wind and sand to create a unique, warm color palette. We were standing in the heart of the city, the pride and heart of the Raiputrian warriors and merchants. You'll easily find exquisite carpets and colorful chests for sale along every alleyway in the city.

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Have you ever ridden a camel? Have you ever traveled through one of the world's largest deserts? Yet, our anticipated "party" was cut short because of rain! A very heavy, somewhat freezing rain in the middle of this desolate desert was truly a once-in-a-lifetime event. But we were also lucky to learn what a camel is and to taste a bit of desert sand (though not much different from the sand in Mui Ne, our hometown).

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Goodbye Jaisalmer, goodbye to you - the desert rose, where the sunset casts its light, the evening spreading across the rooftops, the city radiant with pure golden-brown hues that dim even the sun's rays…

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Additional information

VisaYou can easily apply for an Indian visa online.

TripThere are no direct flights from Vietnam to India, but many airlines operate routes from Ho Chi Minh City/Hanoi to India via one or two layovers.

Move:The cheapest option is a rickshaw, but the most convenient is an auto rickshaw. You can also take public buses or taxis, but remember to agree on the price beforehand to avoid any unexpected charges.

Money:Depending on the exchange rate at different banks, it's best to exchange money in Vietnam or at an Indian airport. However, you must carefully check the exchange rate and the currency you receive to avoid being scammed.

Shopping:Always bargain and be careful with your money.

3G/4G SIM cards:Registering a SIM card in India is quite complicated; it's best to rent (or buy) a Wi-Fi hotspot from Vietnam or buy a SIM card from Vietnam, which will be much cheaper and more convenient.

HotelIt's advisable to book in advance. Hotels in India offer a wide range of prices and types for travelers to choose from.

Cuisine:The food is delicious and interesting; however, since Indians are mostly vegetarian, there is little meat, and they avoid pork and beef, only eating chicken or goat, and even then, very sparingly. The food is spicy and can be difficult to eat for those unfamiliar with it. It's advisable to prepare diarrhea medication and digestive enzymes as a precaution, or bring some dried food. However, it's best to eat discreetly, as eating in front of them is considered taboo.

Culture and taboos:Do not point at temples or deities in public; do not dress too revealingly and always maintain a respectful demeanor; when in Rome, do as the Romans do. Always have the phone numbers of embassies or other trusted sources readily available in case of emergencies.

Weather, climateThe best time is from the end of the year to the beginning of April, when the weather is cool. The hot summer lasts from April to the end of June. From July onwards, it is very dangerous due to heavy rain and thunderstorms.

Lam Truc Nguyen
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