Colors of India

31/10/2018

Although it has been a long time since I returned to Vietnam, the aftertaste of the long trip to India still lingers and haunts me. Perhaps that is why it took me a year to sort out all my emotions and personal impressions and publish a photobook about this country. Each trip, each journey brings different emotions.

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India is no exception, it all seems to be summed up in one word: "Unusual". Unusual because everything from the landscape, to the people, customs, beliefs, cuisine, music are very "Indian" and cannot be found, imitated or mixed anywhere else on this planet.

Perhaps that is why I, like millions of people who have had the opportunity to set foot in the cradle of human civilization - India, cannot fully explain all my emotions, and at the same time bring back an India with unforgettable experiences. It is a proud India wearing the brilliant colors of hundreds of festivals, thousands of Hindus in splendid costumes. But it is also an India that is still in conflict with the dividing line between humans, gods and nature. It is a country where the gap between rich and poor is deeply evident.

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I chose the theme for my trip as: "Colorful India". Perhaps I will never forget the "Yellow" color of old taxis (the only one in India), or the trams rushing through the dusty and noisy city of Kolkata. The "Red" color of the sunset in Varanasi, where the mysterious Ganges River has witnessed the baptism ceremonies from birth to death for thousands of years of devout Hindus. The "White" color for purity, power and faithful love of the place that has amazed the world with its magnificence - Taj Mahal in Agra. The "Green" color covering the undulating neighborhoods under the majestic fortress in Jodpur. Or is it the "Orange" color of the soil and sand in the barren place full of camel footprints under the harsh climate in Jaisalmer. And the "Gray" color of the dynamic and integrated capital Delhi... This brilliant country will welcome me back one day to "paint" all these "very Indian" colors.

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Kolkata (Yellow) – A Gentle Scam

Kolkata (or Calcutta as it used to be) was not the place I expected the most during the trip. This was the place that the whole group had to pass through to prepare for an exciting journey. If it weren't for the Jet Airway flight delay to Varanasi, I probably would never have understood and witnessed with my own eyes the image of such a smoky city. Not knowing whether to thank or blame, but exploring Kolkata for a day was enough to make me inhale a fair amount of smoke that felt like midday fog. The city welcomed us not with a warm applause but with a series of loud sounds: car horns, people shouting, and car stalling were enough to make an impression. On the way from the airport to Howrah station, we witnessed countless people and fates drifting quickly among the crowded and disorderly traffic.

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I am still shocked by the image of a city full of garbage, feces, and dust. I have never felt and imagined Kolkata like that (although I was warned by my Indian friends). Sitting in a yellow taxi - the only yellow taxi in India and watching everything like a fast-paced film between the crowds of people and cars on the streets. I saw farmers going to the city to work hard to make a living next to the leisurely passersby. I saw countless slums surrounding the city with their harsh eyes.

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Passing before my eyes were the British architectural works that were still preserved. The marks of time were still imprinted on the windows that accompanied the years. In the distance, there were horse-drawn carriages that reminded me of the golden age of the old dynasty or somewhere was the image of old trams jostling among the passing people. And from there, the image of Howrah Bridge got closer to us, signaling to me that we had arrived at the station, ending the 2-hour journey wandering around Kolkata.

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The way Kolkata welcomed us was truly unforgettable. There were tricks, gentle and painful deceptions. But the city continued to have parallel contrasts and Kolkata will remain in my memory forever. There, I understood that sometimes just watching the slow pace of life to explore the hidden corners of the soul, and was surprised to realize that life becomes more poetic in the most ordinary things. Do not blame and lament when there are still unfortunate fates and people around you. Explore with your soul.

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Varanasi (Red) - The sound of prayers for someone's soul

Varanasi is known as the spiritual city, the capital of light, the center of thought and the highest learning in India. One of the cities with the most "mosts". One - this is one of the oldest cities in India, as well as in the world. Two - this place was once considered a holy land of Buddhism. Three - this is also the place that thousands of Hindus wish to visit at least once in their life, the city associated with the legendary Ganges River.

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It is true to say that Varanasi is a holy land of Hinduism. Perhaps it was our luck that we had the opportunity to witness the biggest ceremony in 50 years here. That is why the city had to set aside a long stretch of road to become a pedestrian street to welcome the pilgrims. Varanasi became more bustling and crowded than usual, already crowded, now even more crowded and chaotic.

The special thing that we can see in the small streets is the color of the paintings, advertisements, most of which are hand-painted very beautifully and impressively. Trading, eating, and living activities almost all take place parallel along the road. The number of pilgrims is increasing, we have to walk from the beginning of the road to try to squeeze into the center of Varanasi. I tried to blend in with the flow of people like ants trying to run into the hotel as quickly as possible. The three girls following me were probably tired because they had to carry too much luggage and concentrate on not stepping on cow dung.

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After completing all the check-in procedures at the hotel, my friends and I quickly ran down to the boat to catch the sunrise and admire the legendary Ganges River. Because the hotel is located near the river, traveling is quite convenient. It costs at least 100 Rs/person for a trip down the legendary river.

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This city is 5000 years older than history, but now we have the opportunity to immerse ourselves in its mysterious and hazy atmosphere. There are countless people who have dreamed of visiting this river once in their life to admire the daily prayers, cremations, and bathing in the river, and to turn to spirituality and the greatness of time. Every day there are two main bathing sessions in the early morning and late afternoon, but most of the believers bathe all day, right at the place where people's daily activities still take place, from washing to worshiping rituals. All take place at the Ghats - Ghats (roughly translated as river wharfs), each Ghat has its own name given by kings or wealthy merchants. Therefore, there are many interwoven styles creating diverse architecture around the Ganges River area.

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In all the vivid “frames” of the city that unfolded before my eyes, the most impressive and attractive thing here was the sound of prayers. Not the scene of cremation, the scene of people bathing in the river, but the sound of prayers seemed to have kept a part of my soul tightly attached to this Ganga River. I do not understand why it was like that. Could it be that a part of my consciousness belonged to this sacred river?

Yet it is true that in all my dreams about India, the legendary Ganges River is also the place that I long to visit. I may not be brave enough to jump into the river to bathe like Westerners, but for me, the Ganges River has given me an indescribable feeling about a land, a river that is considered the destination of Hindus in their pilgrimages.

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Putting aside the trivial things, the unpleasant scenes such as the bad smell, the jostling, the unhygienic living here, Varanasi still carries a sacred sentiment for me. You must witness the sunrise or sunset here, to calm your mind, to return to the spiritual world, where humans are just a small grain of sand in the flow of time, where when humans die, they will return to the vast ego. It is also the flow of magical floating flower petals, along with the candlelight illuminating the entire river. It is the border between the mortal world and the heavenly world...

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Agra (White) - A place of love stories, a place of eternal love, a place where you and I...

The city of Agra welcomed us when its residents were still asleep. Amidst a hazy haze, the chill of the early morning made travelers like us feel extremely wistful and excited.

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There was not much time to explore Agra like in Varanasi, only one day here. Therefore, we had to choose the main tourist attractions to avoid wasting too much time. It was also a pity to miss some places like Agra Fort, Sikandra, Rambagh… but in my heart, I also promised to come back to this place, to explore the great works here.

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Fatehpur Sikri was our first destination after a 1 hour and 30 minute drive from Agra to the vast abandoned city. Agra was once the capital of the Mughal dynasty, under Emperor Akbar, and was later abandoned for some unknown reason. Interestingly, Buland Darwaza (Victory Gate) is considered the largest gate in Asia, which made our jaws drop and we could only say in our hearts: "Oh my gosh, it's so big!".

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Built of red sandstone, elaborately carved, combining Persian and Indian cultures, Buland Darwaza is a combination of Hindu and Islamic cultural values. The architectural works in Farehpur Sikri are known as the City of All Time. Its exceptional value is not only in the artistic aspect but also shows the boundless wealth of the dynasties, the royal family, and the unparalleled power of God.

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Taj Mahal - the greatest and most magnificent mausoleum of all time - is so famous that it is considered a symbol that everyone who mentions it must remember India, a place that people wish to come here only once in their life just to admire and contemplate...

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There are no words to describe the Taj Mahal, so magnificent, so great. This magnificent mausoleum is built of white marble - a symbol of purity, a heritage of noble, splendid, and sophisticated Indo-Islamic architecture.

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The proud and passionate love of King Shah Jahan for his late wife Mumtaz Mahal has become a famous love story in India in particular and the world in general. Therefore, hundreds of years later, people still have to exclaim: "Taj Mahal is the sanctuary of immortal love, the crystallization of eternal love, a tear on the cheek of time...". Taj Mahal has suffocated the throbbing heart of all humanity... It is the pinnacle of distillation, the delicate synthesis of power and love. The story of this immortal love song Taj Mahal is still a long story that people have passed down to this day.

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Jodhpur (Blue) - City of the Sun.

Once again we set off on the night train, after a day of exploring Agra. After a good night's sleep on the train, we were warmly welcomed by Vinay's family (a kind Indian friend who helped us a lot on this trip, letting us stay overnight in Jodhpur) at the Jodhpur train station, which warmed our hearts in the cold of the misty fog.

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On the way to the nearby parking lot, a rather painful image caught my eye: hundreds of people waiting for the train lying along the corridor without any protective cover. How could they endure for hours on such cold tiled floors? But it is the truth, the poor often have no other choice. I felt sad and sorry for the fates of people full of misfortune. The harshness of the weather is not comparable to the harshness of the clear division between rich and poor. India is beautiful, the architecture is beautiful but the contrast between social classes still exists. Is it an invisible or visible boundary, a cold or warm face? That is still an answer that people have never reached.

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We stayed at Vinay's family. The enthusiasm and hospitality of Vinay's family was immediately evident in the way they welcomed us as guests, making us both happy and sorry for not having brought many gifts from Vietnam to give. Vinay's family is Buddhist, Vinay's father is a famous writer and is highly respected by everyone in the area. His mother and sister were very nice, showing us how to make Chai (Indian tea) and Roti, which was very interesting. I wonder if you, when traveling to India, have had the opportunity to witness the daily life of the Indian people?

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When mentioning Jodhpur, every tourist will immediately remember its name, the city of the sun or Blue City. I don't understand why it is called the city of the sun? Is it the most beautiful place to welcome the sun? The feeling of sitting and sipping a cup of Chai while watching the sunset is wonderful. I have watched the sunset in many places I have been to, but this place really gives me an indescribable feeling. The chill of the evening, the sunlight shining on the whole land, below are the undulating buildings painted in a very special blue color, creating a vivid picture with many different colors. I heard somewhere that: "There are beauties that should be enjoyed rather than photographed." I don't know if I recorded that correctly or not, but the beauty is truly beyond imagination, making me feel elated and refreshed right now, when I am thousands of miles away from India.

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Jaisalmer – The Feast Is Not Complete

Like Jodhpur, Jaisalmer is located in the state of Rajasthan and is one of the oldest cities with many unique cultural features of the desert. Moving from one city to another has also become familiar to us. From Jodhpur to Jaisalmer is not as far as I thought but perhaps my companions and I were tired from the days of wandering in this strange land.

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What greeted us in Jaisalmer was not a brilliant sunset or a clear dawn, but a chilling cold in the middle of the night. We were wandering around the vast, deserted city with our arms cramped, trying to find the hotel that we heard was very beautiful. Ah! Finally, paradise appeared before our eyes. The hotel was very beautiful, located in the middle of Golden Fort on a hill of Trikuta. It was said that this hotel was the home of a mandarin or general with great merit, so it was built very elaborately and meticulously, somewhat grandiose. Most of the architectural works in this area are made of yellow sandstone, mixed with the wind and sand, creating a unique warm color. We were standing in the heart of the city, the heart and pride of the Raiputs warriors and merchants. You will easily come across beautiful carpets or colorful chests for sale along all the large and small alleys in the city.

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Have you ever ridden a camel? Have you ever walked in one of the largest deserts in the world? However, the “party” we were looking forward to was not complete because: Rain! A very heavy and somewhat cold rain in the middle of this desolate desert is truly once in a thousand years. But we were also lucky to know what a camel is, to taste a little of the desert sand (although it is not much different from the sand in Mui Ne, my hometown).

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Goodbye Jaisalmer, goodbye you - desert rose, where the sunset reflects the sun, the afternoon gradually spreads on the roofs, the city is radiant with pure golden brown that fades the sun...

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More information

Visa: You can easily apply for Indian visa online.

Trip: There are no direct flights from Vietnam to India, but many airlines operate flights from Ho Chi Minh City/Hanoi to India via 1-2 transit points.

Move:The cheapest is a rickshaw, but the most convenient is still an auto rickshaw. People can take public buses or taxis, but remember to negotiate the price first to avoid being overcharged.

Money:Depending on the time, check the rates at the banks. It is best to exchange in Vietnam or at the airport in India. However, you must check the rates and the money exchanged carefully to avoid being scammed.

Shopping:Always bargain and be careful with money.

3g/4g SIM:Registering a SIM card in India is quite complicated, it's best to rent (or buy) a wifi transmitter from Vietnam or buy a SIM card from Vietnam, which will be much cheaper and more convenient.

Hotel: should book before going. Hotels in India have many price ranges and types for tourists to choose from.

Cuisine:Very delicious and interesting, however, because Indians are mainly vegetarians, there is little meat, avoiding pork and beef, only eating chicken or goat but also very limited. The food is spicy and somewhat difficult to eat for those who are not used to it. You should prepare diarrhea medicine, digestive enzymes to prevent risks or bring dry food. However, you should eat discreetly because eating in front of them is taboo.

Culture and taboos:Do not point at temples or gods in public; do not dress too revealingly and always be respectful; when in Rome, do as the Romans do. Always have the phone numbers of embassies or other trusted sources ready in case of emergency.

Weather and climate: The best time is from the end of the year to the beginning of April, when the weather is cool. Summer is hot from April to the end of June. From July onwards it is very dangerous because of heavy rain and thunder.

Lam Truc Nguyen
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