Seeking out Thanh Duyen Pagoda, a national temple hidden far from the capital city.

A brief history of the temple.

In ancient times, Cau Hai Lagoon was called O Long Lagoon, and the estuary where O Long Lagoon opened to the sea was called O Long Hai Khau (O Long Sea Mouth). In 1306, when Princess Huyen Tran went to Champa to marry Che Man, she traveled by sea to O Long estuary, then entered the area of ​​present-day Hue to travel south by land across Hai Van Pass. From then on, O Long estuary was renamed Tu Dung (meaning:remember the beautiful girlOver more than five centuries, with a few changes back and forth, in 1841, King Thieu Tri renamed this estuary to Tu Hien, and it has retained that name to this day.

The Tu Hien estuary area is dotted with two mountains: Linh Thai Mountain and Tuy Van Mountain. Linh Thai Mountain is larger and located further out, while Tuy Van Mountain is smaller and situated further inland from the Cau Hai lagoon.

Mount Tuy Van was originally called My Am Son. Legend says that Lord Nguyen Phuc Tan (1620-1687) built a small hermitage on the mountain as a place to pray for blessings for the local people. In 1692, Lord Nguyen Phuc Chu renovated the hermitage into a temple. However, the turmoil of war at the end of the 18th century completely destroyed the temple.

In 1825, King Minh Mạng ordered the reconstruction of a new temple here, called Thúy Hoa Temple, and the mountain was also renamed Thúy Hoa Mountain. In 1836, the king again renovated the temple, adding the Đại Từ Các and Điều Ngự Tower, and had a stone stele inscribed with the name of "Thánh Duyên Temple" on "Thúy Hoa Mountain". The temple was given the new name Thánh Duyên, and the temple's name and the mountain's name were separated from then on.

In 1841, when King Thieu Tri ascended the throne, out of respect for the taboo name of Empress Dowager Ho Thi Hoa, he changed the name of Thuy Hoa Mountain to Thuy Van - meaning...The mountains are shrouded in a deep blue mist.Combined with the equally turquoise waters of Cau Hai Lagoon, creating a breathtaking natural landscape, King Thieu Tri ranked Thuy Van Mountain ninth among the 20 scenic spots of the imperial capital.

The stone tablet is inscribed with the poem.Van Son scenic spotThe stele, erected by King Thieu Tri in 1843, is housed in a stele house at the foot of the mountain, next to the steps leading up to the temple. Due to neglect, the stele house has become dilapidated.Van Son scenic spotIt is now in a state of severe disrepair, with weeds growing all around.

The temple houses rare and precious ancient statues.

As you ascend the wide steps up the mountain, just as the height of the staircase isn't enough to tire your knees, but your breathing becomes slightly more rapid, you've just passed through the triple-arched gate and entered the temple courtyard.

In the left corner of the temple courtyard is where the stele is placed.Imperial DecreeThe temple, built in a dignified manner under the small, airy pavilion, belonged to King Minh Mạng. Immediately after the triple-arched gate, across the courtyard, is the main hall of Thánh Duyên Pagoda - a large building with three bays and two wings, featuring a traditional roof style.double toad nestcharacteristic of Hue.

The central hall of the inner sanctuary houses the Three Buddhas (Past, Present, and Future). On either side of the Buddha altar are two rows of altars dedicated to the Ten Kings of Hell and the Eighteen Arhats, with five Kings of Hell and nine bronze Arhat statues on each side.

Besides the set of eighteen Arhats in bronze – commissioned by Emperor Minh Mạng in the first half of the 19th century (each statue approximately 55 cm high, 35-42 cm wide, placed on a 13 cm high base) – the pagoda also preserves a set of eighteen Arhats in gilded bamboo, approximately 18 cm high and 5-6 cm wide, placed on a 4 cm high base. These are ancient and precious sets of statues, confirmed to be the oldest and largest set of eighteen Arhats, as well as the oldest set of gilded bamboo Arhats. Currently, the bronze set of eighteen Arhats is displayed in the inner sanctuary, while the gilded bamboo set is preserved by the pagoda under special conditions to ensure its longevity.

Leaving the main hall and entering through the back gate of the temple, one continues up a flight of stairs winding between ancient trees, leading up the mountain. Barely visible above is the ceremonial gate of the Great Compassion Pavilion.

The Great Compassion Pavilion is divided into three worship chambers: the central chamber is dedicated to Amitabha Buddha, Shakyamuni Buddha, and Maitreya Buddha; the right chamber is dedicated to Avalokiteśvara Bodhisattva; and the left chamber is dedicated to Mahasthamaprapta Bodhisattva. In recent times, the temple has had fewer staff, so the Great Compassion Pavilion is often locked, and volunteers occasionally open the gate to sweep the leaves in the courtyard of the old pavilion.

Continuing up the stairs, past the bend, you'll catch a glimpse of the towering Điều Ngự Tower amidst the trees. The tower is about 12 meters high, has a square base, and is built in three tiers that gradually narrow towards the top.

Điều Ngự is one of the titles of the Buddha, and it also carries the meaning ofa place where the king could discipline and control his mind.King Minh Mạng also had the Tiến Sảng pavilion built behind the Điều Ngự tower, perhaps with the meaning that when the mind is controlled, anything can be accomplished.

Wandering beneath the canopy of ancient trees, travelers rest at a small pavilion overlooking Cau Hai Lagoon. The sunset over Cau Hai Lagoon in early summer is truly beautiful; watching the large, round, and vibrant red sun slowly fade into the thin mist on the lagoon's surface, one feels a sense of peace and tranquility, as if merging with the serene atmosphere of the place.

Suddenly, I understood why, despite being the furthest from the capital among the three national temples, this place was frequently visited by emperors, literati, and scholars of the time.

Text and photos: Nam Hoa