In my 10-year travel history, Japan is the country I've visited the most times (4 times). Even so, each time I return, the same streets, the same scenery, but with the different colors of each season, leave me with completely different emotions. That autumn trip to Japan was also a journey filled with personal feelings, as I realized that opening my heart wasn't as difficult as I had thought.
A tranquil autumn in ancient Takayama
Takayama is a beautiful mountain city in Gifu Prefecture, famous for its morning market culture, its well-preserved old town with centuries-old wooden houses, and the picturesque Hida Folk Village.
As soon as I entered Takayama's old town, I was amazed by the rustic, old-fashioned charm of the rows of ancient wooden houses dating back to the Edo period (1600-1868). Each house today has been transformed into a restaurant, tea house, or souvenir shop, each with its own unique decor, yet still preserving the old-world feel and traditional architecture of the entire neighborhood.
The further I went, the more captivated I became by the charm of these wooden houses. The pretty flower arrangements in front of the doors served as a welcoming arch, the stone cat waving its paw to greet visitors, the creaking wooden doors, the exquisitely crafted souvenirs, and the countless varieties of fragrant sake – these details contributed to the unique and alluring character of this old town.
Located not far from Takayama Old Town, Hida Folk Village truly lives up to its reputation as a picturesque village, appearing magical in the vibrant golden hues of autumn. Ancient wooden houses and trees in various colors shimmer on the lake's surface – where white swans swim freely – creating a dreamlike, enchanting scene. It seems as if all the colors of autumn are concentrated here, unexpectedly magnificent, from yellow and orange to bright red, deep red, and purple.
This place is also known as an "open-air museum," featuring dozens of ancient houses built in the early architectural style of Japan. The steeply pitched roofs, resembling two hands clasped in prayer, are made from many layers of thatch, ensuring good windproofing and heat retention to withstand the harsh winter climate. All the objects inside these houses are preserved intact and displayed authentically, allowing visitors to visualize the daily life of the Japanese people in the past.
Taking a stroll around Hida village, admiring the vibrant autumn scenery against the rustic backdrop of the countryside, were some of the most memorable and relaxing moments of the trip.
Shirakawa-go after the harvest
An hour's bus ride west of Takayama lies the ancient village of Shirakawa-go, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Shirakawa-go is a popular tourist destination in Japan throughout all four seasons. Each season paints a different picture with its vibrant colors. Spring is a riot of blossoms, summer is a refreshing green with vast rice paddies and clear blue skies. Winter is a blanket of snow covering the rooftops, while autumn brings the golden hues of changing leaves and ripening rice. We arrived just after the rice had been harvested, with only stubble remaining, but this did not diminish the enchanting autumnal charm of the village.
Sharing the same ancient architectural style as the Hida folk village, the houses here are not museum exhibits but actual residences of the local people. Hundreds of houses with steep, thick thatched roofs, up to half a meter thick, nestle in the valley of Mount Hakusan in central Japan. We were fortunate to witness the villagers thatching a new house. This shows just how much effort goes into constructing such an elaborate traditional thatched roof.
Strolling along the village roads, whether in the early morning or late afternoon, the scenery was strangely peaceful. Houses nestled among rice paddies and maple trees that had turned red, while in the distance, white clouds drifted away behind the Hakusan mountain range. We only spent a short night in Shirakawa-go village, and we regretted not being able to enjoy this tranquil scene longer.
Relax in Takaragawa
Bidding farewell to the tranquil ancient villages, we arrived at Takaragawa Onsen, located in the Minakami hot spring area in northern Gunma Prefecture. Rated as one of Japan's most famous onsen (hot spring resorts), Takaragawa Onsen boasts expansive open-air hot spring pools surrounded by breathtaking natural scenery throughout all four seasons, along with cozy traditional Ryokan-style accommodations and authentic Japanese cuisine. This was also the most luxurious experience of our entire trip, and it was truly worth it.
Nothing is more relaxing than soaking in hot water at 38-40 degrees Celsius.oC in cool weather 8-10oC, listening to the gentle sound of the stream and watching the golden leaves flutter in the wind. And then, dressed in traditional Yukata, the group strolled along the leaf-strewn path in the drizzle, constantly marveling at the breathtakingly vibrant autumn colors.
My heart skipped a beat in Towada.
I used to think that feelings of infatuation or excitement for someone or a particular moment were reserved only for the fresh, impulsive years of youth. Then, I was surprised to find myself, 20 years after my youth, my heart skipped a beat once more at the sight of the romantic autumn scenery in Towada with someone I had just met.
I don't want to share too many details about that moment out of respect for "that person," I can only say that I had a very special and memorable day strolling through autumn. Perhaps the vibrant natural scenery of that season elevated my emotions.
Hand in hand, we strolled along a small stream. The drizzling rain, sometimes falling, sometimes stopping, made the air even colder with each gust of wind. Walking silently together, it seemed as if we shared some magical connection, able to "hear" what the other was saying and thinking, even without speaking.
I don't remember the exact location of that road, but I think it was near Lake Towada. The autumn scenery was breathtaking, with babbling streams, small waterfalls cascading down moss-covered hillsides, and golden and red leaves filling the landscape.
The sense of time and space that day seemed hazy. We wandered together until dusk, a fleeting moment of anxiety and confusion as we scrambled to catch the last bus of the day. Even though that person will forever remain a "stranger," those emotionally charged moments, at least for me, will forever be etched in my memory!
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
Visa:The current visa application process for Japan is not simple. You need to prepare your passport, a 4.5x4.5 cm passport photo, a visa application form (available online at the Embassy), a travel itinerary, hotel bookings, and flight reservations (tickets are not required yet). The processing time is one week, and the tourist visa is valid for 90 days from the date of issuance, allowing single entry for a maximum of 15 days (for short-term, single-entry tourist visas). Importantly, the visa fee is only collected upon visa approval and is paid at the Embassy on the day your passport is returned.
Trip:Since Japan expanded tourism with Vietnam, many airlines have offered direct flights from major Vietnamese cities (Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Da Nang) to major Japanese cities (Tokyo, Osaka, Sapporo). In addition, these airlines often have promotional programs with very attractive fares. We chose Vietnam Airlines, flying to Osaka and returning from Tokyo with a promotional fare of 12 million VND.
Means of transportation:Getting around in Japanese cities is incredibly easy thanks to its highly modern public transportation system. For foreign tourists, the most economical option is to buy a JR Pass (Japan Rail Pass) for 7 or 14 days (depending on your schedule), which allows you to use most public transportation, from the world's fastest bullet trains, the Shinkansen, to regular trains, buses, metros, and subways. There are many websites and apps that help you choose the most suitable public transportation to get from one place to another at any given time. I used Hyperdia and was extremely satisfied with the accuracy of the information provided.
Time:Before embarking on your autumn trip to Japan, you should regularly check the updated autumn foliage schedule on Japanese travel websites. Generally, autumn begins in September and ends in mid-November. However, the exact timing of the leaves turning yellow, orange, and red varies by region and year. Our trip was from October 22nd to October 31st.
Cuisine:Japanese cuisine is one of the unique features of the Land of the Rising Sun. Not only famous for sushi rolls and sashimi, traditional dishes like bento boxes, udon/ramen noodles, and grilled beef are also very special. In the Takayama region, you can't miss the famous Hida beef, which is just as delicious as Kobe beef but much more affordable.
Accommodation:To save money, we always stayed in small hostels. Although small, these hostels were extremely clean, cozy, and offered professional service. I usually preferred booking rooms with hostel chains that had many branches in cities, such as K'House, J-Hopper, and Khaosan.
Skin:The autumn weather in Japan is extremely beautiful, with cool temperatures in October ranging from 12 to 18 degrees Celsius.oTemperatures will drop a few degrees Celsius at night. Therefore, in addition to your autumn clothing (thicker than typical summer clothing in Vietnam), you should prepare two jackets (one thin, one thick), along with a scarf so you can comfortably admire the autumn colors.