The Chinese community contributes to the unique flavor of Saigon (part 2)

Read Part 1here

Wandering around the "rich people's" market

The market's original name was Phung Hung Market, the exact name of the street where it was located. However, the name most widely known is probably the "rich people's market," or Capital Market. It got this name because prices were higher than other markets, but the quality was always guaranteed, as the market only sold fresh produce in the mornings, making way for food stalls that opened at noon and in the evenings. Next to the market was the legendary Capital Theater. During the golden age of Vietnamese traditional opera, almost everyone in Saigon knew this theater. Therefore, to best locate the market, the name Capital Market was coined.

Nestled amidst Chinese residential areas, the market retains its old-fashioned architecture and strong traditional Chinese character. If you have time to visit the market in the morning, you might be surprised to find yourself in Hong Kong, as the locals communicate entirely in Cantonese. They sell a full range of household appliances, clothing, and even food.

My favorite time at the market is around 3 PM. At that time, the crowds have thinned out, and the food stalls start opening, filling the air with delicious aromas. I can find all my childhood favorites there: taro cakes, bitter melon with chili and peppers, and incredibly tasty breakfast items at very reasonable prices. In the middle of the market is the famous Ba Lu filter coffee shop, which I'm sure anyone who loves Cholon should visit at least once to enjoy the coffee, hear the story of their family-recipe coffee recipe, and learn about the changes Cholon has undergone from the past to the present.

Xa Tay Market, once a romantic place.

In the Cholon area, there used to be a building called the "Cholon City Hall," which locals shortened to "Xa Tay" (the town hall of the Westerners - at that time, the French), and because there was a market nearby, they simply called it Xa Tay Market for easy remembrance.

Xã Tây Market once had a romantic past. This market was chosen as the setting for the famous film "The Lover" (L'Amant). The film was based on the true love story of a French girl and Huỳnh Thủy Lê, a Chinese man from a wealthy landowner family in Sadec. The original yin-yang tiled roofs and the time-worn yellow walls were sweetly incorporated into the film. Although the current market is no longer as intact as it was in the film, and is only about 200-300 meters long, the small alleys leading into the Chinese community still evoke a sense of nostalgia in viewers.

Visiting the market on the full moon days, I was most impressed by the skillfully prepared vegetarian curry at the beginning of the market. Not only me, but my friends also kept praising its deliciousness. At Xa Tay Market, you can easily find other snacks like sweet soups and various cakes such as cassava cakes, chive cakes, taro cakes, etc. While eating in the market, you might hear Chinese spoken and also hear Muslim prayers during the salat (prayer hours) because there is a mosque right next to the market where you can try Halal food. As for me, my go-to spot every time I pass through the market is the stall selling refreshing herbal drinks, perfect for after a hot afternoon wandering around.

My childhood spanned District 11.

District 11 is a "child" of both District 5 and District 6, formed by separating land from those two districts. Therefore, saying that District 11 belongs to Cholon is correct, but saying that it lies outside Cholon is also not wrong.

This is probably the place I've been most attached to from childhood to adulthood, so every time I wander around this area, I feel nostalgic, even though things have changed quite a bit over time. I vividly remember wandering around the school gate after elementary school, waiting for my dad to pick me up, eating a bowl of grass jelly dessert or a bag of mixed rice paper with "xá bấu" (stir-fried pickled radish), or chili peppers and tomatoes made from mung beans. The Xóm Đất neighborhood where I studied was also famous for its breakfast dishes, with steaming pans of stir-fried rice noodles and the fragrant aroma of bread from the bakeries filling the whole neighborhood. Those childhood eateries are still there today, the quality unchanged, only the prices have gently increased over time.

It would be a shame to visit District 11 and miss Ha Ton Quyen Street with its famous dumpling noodle soup. As children, just hearing the name of it would make us kids' mouths water. The entire street is lined with stalls selling only one dish, and no matter which stall you go to, you'll experience the unique and delicious taste of that particular shop.

There's a funny nickname that young people pass around for District 11: "the district that widens... buttock circumference." Would you dare to try it?

Chinatown in the heart of the city.

It's often assumed that the Chinese community is concentrated solely in districts 5, 6, or 11, but in fact, District 1 also boasts a very distinctive Chinese neighborhood: Nguyen Thai Binh ward, surrounding Dan Sinh market. I first visited five years ago while touring the Fine Arts Museum and was incredibly impressed. I've returned many times since to explore the small alleyways.

Here, there are coffee shops where older people gather, telling stories and occasionally bursting into laughter. Every morning, I buy a box of savory Chinese-style sticky rice and a cup of coffee, then sit there leisurely listening to the Chinese men chat; the simple sounds can make one feel energized in the early morning. Once, out of curiosity, I struck up a conversation and they told me about a once-famous entertainment district in Saigon called Kim Chung, which is also this area. In the past, they sold used American military uniforms and equipment here, but later they started selling mechanics and car parts.

People also come here to enjoy Chinese-style noodle dishes such as fish noodle soup, pork stomach noodle soup, and pork rib noodle soup, which are very distinctive. The prices are naturally a bit higher than in the Cholon area, but it's an experience that tourists should try. After all, you can't buy an experience with money, right?

Things to note when exploring Chinatowns.

- Don't speak too quickly when communicating with the locals here, especially the elderly.

- Don't imitate their accent. When they speak Vietnamese, their accent will sound a little "different" because they're used to communicating with each other in Cantonese.

Prepare yourself with a rumbling stomach and a generous wallet; you won't be able to resist the abundance of delicious food here.

- Ba Lu's traditional Vietnamese filter coffee shop in Thu Do Market opens at 4 AM and closes around 5 PM.

- Although Xã Tây Market is short, it has three alleys. Each has its own name and story.

- If you want to try vegetarian food and enjoy a lively atmosphere, come on the full moon days.

Some "keywords" for tourists

ButAlley:If you want to learn more about the Chinese community, this is the key. The alleyways often have very interesting stories. For example, alley 720 Nguyen Trai, Ward 11, District 5… (go find a local restaurant and ask about the man who sells bean sprouts, Mr. Tuong)).

ButThe elderly:Here's another tip for those who enjoy listening to stories. Most Chinese people are very friendly and hospitable, so don't hesitate to strike up a conversation, ask questions, and request a photo!

ButUncle Hoa:While wandering around the Cholon area and Dan Sinh Market, ask about the background of this man - one of the "four great wealthy men" of old Saigon.

ButPagoda:Visit all the Chinese temples and shrines you come across along the way to see how their worship culture differs from that of your own.

Wanderful Dreamers