VI
EN
IN THE MIDLANDS OF LOVE
I arrived in Kushiro and chose Tsuruimura hermitage as my accommodation. The homestay I booked was nestled amidst a vast meadow, with every window offering a picturesque view. The homestay, named "Heart n' Tree," was founded by a Japanese couple who left the hustle and bustle of city life to find the simple joys of the countryside. With sincerity and love, the Hattori family created a warm and welcoming atmosphere, fostering a sense of family togetherness. Soon, they had nearly 1,000 "children" from many countries around the world, simply because every time they stayed, everyone wanted to call them "Otousan" (father) and "Okaasan" (mother). "My father's love, since he met my mother, has remained unchanged for decades."
Every day here, I get to enjoy authentic Italian dishes cooked by my "mother," who personally learned to make them in Tuscany. I get to drink pure cow's milk from a farm on the prairie, and my "father" takes me on trips to amazing destinations in Kushiro. Every morning when I wake up, I see sunlight shining on the heart-shaped tree outside my window; in that place, every day is filled with love.
EYES THAT KNOW HOW TO SEEK AND A HEART THAT KNOWS HOW TO FEEL
Perhaps it's rare during a long journey for travel enthusiasts to be completely overwhelmed by a particular sight. That was me when I stopped at Lake Sunayu in Teshikaga at midday, the sun shining warmly down on the shimmering water where white swans swam leisurely. It was a scene that made everyone around exclaim, "It's truly moving!" Visitors simply need to sit in the small onsen by the sandy shore, soak their feet, and quietly immerse themselves in the joy of that moment.
Around Kushiro, there are many other turquoise lakes with a beauty that needs no filter, enough to captivate any visitor, such as Akanko and Mashuko. Along the way, you'll pass mountains shrouded in volcanic smoke, coniferous forests awaiting snowfall, and countless breathtaking moments in the face of nature. These include deer, elk, snow foxes, rabbits, and other mysterious creatures lurking in the deep forests, seemingly asking permission to cross the path. If you visit Kushiro with eyes that know how to observe and a heart that knows how to feel, you will experience the most memorable emotions of this northern region of Japan.
A SYMBOL OF LONGEVITY AND GOOD FORTUNE
That's the Japanese crane (also known as the white crane, Tanchou), a symbolic bird of Japan with characteristics of longevity, fidelity, good fortune, and loyalty. You can easily find embroidered images of this red-crowned crane on traditional kimonos, curtains, or in any respectful space in the Land of the Rising Sun. However, only in Kushiro can we witness this precious crane at its most beautiful moments of the day: sunset and sunrise.
The villagers of Tsuruimura (the village name also refers to this species of stork, meaning "large bird") highly value "Tanchou," always maintaining a distance of at least 100 meters from the spots where they will perch at sunrise or sunset. Visitors need cameras with high zoom capabilities or binoculars to capture the sight. If lucky, you might get a close look at the white storks when they accidentally land near a house or fly overhead before heading out to forage. But I can confirm that they are truly beautiful, possessing a very majestic aura, and well worth the effort to see them.
THE VILLAGE OF ANCIENT PEOPLE
A few months ago, I was sitting in the library, diligently searching for books about the Ainu people for some essential research at that time. I asked every Hokkaido resident I met about the Ainu, and they usually didn't know, or knew very little, much like asking a Da Lat resident about the Lach people. After reading a few translated articles I found online, I even thought this ethnic group had long since disappeared, having moved into the deep, snow-covered forests and remained hidden ever since.
But no, according to Japanese sources, by Lake Akanko in Kushiro, at the southernmost tip of Hokkaido, the Ainu people still live happily in a village of wooden houses. In summer, they sing songs about the mountains. In winter, they perform the legendary crane dances. And the patterns on their traditional clothing continue from the past to the present. So, on my trip to Kushiro, I decided to visit this village by the lake. Although it was a bit far, the reward was enjoying the enchanting atmosphere of Ainu Kotan, from the entrance gate with its owl symbol to the music of the Ainu language, from the streets filled with sparkling lights and wooden houses to the exquisitely carved traditional handicrafts. Most surprisingly, there was even a lovely Ghibli Studio shop that captivated any visitor.
Unfortunately, the Ainu people usually only appear at festivals; on ordinary days, they diligently work in their own workshops, and the shops in the village are all managed by Japanese people, so I haven't had the chance to meet them. But I think that's reason for me to return to Kushiro, to Lake Akanko, and see the crane dances of this unique ethnic group in the near future.
