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East: The road to wonderland
When talking about tourism in Cao Bang, everyone immediately thinks of its most famous scenic spot: Ban Gioc Waterfall. Therefore, I chose this as my first stop on my journey to explore the natural beauty of Cao Bang.
Located in Dam Thuy commune, Trung Khanh district, Ban Gioc Waterfall is about 80 km from the center of Cao Bang city. It is one of the most beautiful and majestic waterfalls in the world situated on a border between countries, comparable to Iguazu Falls, Victoria Falls, and Niagara Falls. In the middle of the waterfall, a wide, tree-covered mound of earth separates the water into three main streams, dividing the waterfall into two distinct parts with a total width of about 300 meters. The smaller section, entirely within Vietnamese territory, has a smaller volume of water. The main section, with its larger volume, lies on the Vietnamese-Chinese border. At the foot of the waterfall, the Quay Son River flows peacefully, its banks lined with lush green grass, and in the distance, the silhouettes of the forest create a poetic scene. Fortunately, I visited Ban Gioc Waterfall on a beautiful sunny day; the sunlight shining through the white foam created a dazzling rainbow effect, like something out of a fairy tale.
About 3 km from Ban Gioc Waterfall is Nguom Ngao Cave. Nguom Ngao means "Tiger Cave" in the Tay language. The underground stream in the cave flows murmuringly day and night, emitting echoes like the roar of a tiger, hence its name. This limestone cave is over 2 km long, divided into many chambers, levels, steps, and corridors of all sizes. Some sections are vast like a grand hall, while others are narrow, requiring one to bend over and crawl on their knees to pass through. Inside the cave are many strangely shaped stalactites and stalagmites, forming terraced fields, waterfalls, ships, lotus pedestals, and tower-like structures.
More specifically, scientists have found fossilized coral and sea anemones in Ngườm Ngao Cave, formed in ancient seas hundreds of millions of years ago. Looking up at the limestone domes hanging down in the shape of giant jellyfish, I couldn't help but imagine a distant past, when this mysterious cave in the high mountains was once a magnificent underwater palace teeming with countless fish and shrimp...
On the way to the next attraction, the Eye of the Mountain, I stopped by several villages specializing in traditional crafts of ethnic minority communities.
These are the incense-making village of Phia Thap and the blacksmith village of Pac Rang, inhabited by the Nung An people. The lives of the villagers here are still difficult; besides farming, handicrafts are their only source of income. Yet, the products they make can impress any visitor because they are so skillfully crafted, so high-quality, and so inexpensive! Another village located very close to Ban Gioc Waterfall and Nguom Ngao Cave is the stone village of Khuoi Ky, inhabited by the Tay people. Phia Thap makes incense, Pac Rang forges metal, but Khuoi Ky stone village does not mine or process stone. Khuoi Ky is called the stone village because of its stilt houses made of stone, nestled against the rocky mountains, overlooking the Khuoi Ky stream. The fences, dams, mills, and stoves are all made of stone, creating a simple yet ancient atmosphere, like a legendary fortress on the border.
I stopped at the Eye of the Mountain God at sunset. It was the right time to choose this moment; I just managed to see the magnificent rays of the setting sun shining directly into the eye of the mountain god. This is actually a circular hole in the mountain, more than 50 meters in diameter. The Tay people call this place Phia Piót, meaning "Hole Mountain." Right below the towering, majestic Eye of the Mountain God lies a peaceful expanse of lush green rice and corn fields, with scattered figures herding buffalo and horses back to their stalls. A Tay woman told me that if I visited during the rainy season, I would witness an even more beautiful sight: the valley at the foot of the mountain would be flooded with turquoise water, reflecting the mountain god's image against the sky and clouds...
West: The mountainous region of change
Waking up one morning high in the mountains, gazing out at the vast green tea hills, I took a deep breath of the fresh morning air. That alone was enough to know that the tea here is grown organically and without any harmful chemicals. Savoring a piece of fragrant rice cake and sipping green tea at this Phia Đén eco-tourism resort, I felt as if I were still in a dreamy land, where I could reach out and touch the golden sunshine and the pristine white mist.
Cao Bang is like that; in all directions, there are only endless mountains, yet no two places are alike. The majestic, moss-covered Phia Oac region is shrouded in a vast sea of fog, concealing the small, peaceful houses of the Tay, Nung, and Dao people... The Tinh Tuc Hanging Valley stands tall, framing the traces of millions of years of glacial history. The Dragon's Back Mountain, with its jagged limestone "spikes," winds through forests and streams, making it seem as if, for a moment, I could see an ancient mythical beast stirring and soaring into the clouds. Or, more modestly, the Rooster's Comb Mountain, interwoven with rugged limestone and gently sloping shale, possesses a simple yet vibrant beauty, like the terraced rice fields shimmering with golden light in autumn.
These beauties are a gift from nature to Cao Bang. And from there, generations of people have carved through the mountains and cleared the forests, weaving together terraced rice fields, tea plantations, trout farms, villages, and cooperatives.
I had the opportunity to visit the Kolia tea plantation, as mentioned above, and the Sunny salmon farm, both located on Phia Den mountain. I honestly recommend that if you can, you take some time to visit this place.
The tea plants and fish, raised at altitudes of thousands of meters, are filtered by the mountain air, resulting in a clean and fragrant beverage that tastes distinctly different from food and drinks in the lowlands. Similarly, the embroidery workshop of the Dao Tien people in Nguyen Binh district is also a worthwhile destination. While you can't taste the embroidery, simply watching the women skillfully embroidering the brocade and printing beeswax patterns is a feast for the eyes!
North: A journey back to our roots
Besides its picturesque landscapes and rich cultural identity of ethnic minorities, Cao Bang has also witnessed many important historical events, associated with the activities of President Ho Chi Minh, General Vo Nguyen Giap, and the Vietnam People's Army during the pre-revolutionary period. Among these, the most prominent is the Pac Bo National Special Historical Site. You can leisurely stroll along the Ho Chi Minh Trail or hire a guide – not because the path is too difficult, but to listen to local stories and legends about a glorious revolutionary era.
Along the roadside, Tay and Nung women sold fragrant local snacks. I bought a bag of hot candied chestnuts, then walked along, admiring the emerald-green Lenin Stream, gently winding at the foot of the majestic Karl Marx Mountain, which stood like a fortress wall. Old fig trees drooped close to the water's surface, obscuring the small path of about 30-50 steps leading to Coc Bo Cave. The cave was small, dry, and quite secluded, with a second entrance. The main entrance was not intact after the war but has now been restored. Inside, the limestone stalactites, as well as the simple bed and the rudimentary kitchen, remain, evoking memories of Uncle Ho's time of "morning by the stream, evening in the cave." Leaving the cave, you will immediately see the source of the Lenin Stream, where the water flows strongly and quite clearly; this is where the cave gets its name "Coc Bo," meaning "source" in the Nung language. Right next to it is the "precarious stone table," where Uncle Ho translated the history of the Party during his clandestine activities here.
As we traveled further down the road, the gloomy mountains and forests narrowed, while the terraced rice fields, meadows, and cornfields expanded, stretching endlessly in the peaceful tranquility of the late afternoon. A few Tay and Nung children, dressed in red and floral clothes, stood by the roadside, holding half-eaten sweet potatoes and cassava roots, their mouths and eyes twinkling with smiles as they looked at me. That evening, stopping at a homestay halfway up the mountain, I also enjoyed a bit of the "eat and sleep in a local's home" atmosphere. The Tay host was incredibly welcoming and hospitable. The braised pork leg with chestnuts, smoked buffalo meat, and stir-fried bamboo shoots were so delicious that just thinking about them makes me crave them again!
After three days escaping the hustle and bustle of the city, returning here to the source of the flowing water to watch the clouds drift by, I felt an unusual sense of peace and tranquility...
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
- Trip:Cao Bang is approximately 280 km from Hanoi. From Hanoi, you can take National Highway 3, passing through Thai Nguyen and Bac Kan to reach Cao Bang, or take the route National Highway 1 - Lang Son - National Highway 4 - That Khe, Dong Khe - Cao Bang. Tourists can also buy bus tickets to Cao Bang at bus stations in these provinces. If traveling by private vehicle (motorcycle, car), you need to pay attention to safety: brakes, tires, chain, etc., and carry all necessary documents. You should bring some common repair tools as the road from Cao Bang city to Ban Gioc is quite difficult.
- TimeEach season in Cao Bang has its own unique beauty. However, the best time to visit Cao Bang is in August and September when Ban Gioc Waterfall cascades with clear blue water, and the rice fields turn golden yellow; and in November and December when buckwheat and wild sunflowers bloom throughout the mountains and forests.
- Accommodation:Cao Bang offers a diverse range of accommodations, including guesthouses, hotels, and resorts. You can choose to book a room at homestays, guesthouses, or budget hotels priced from 200,000 to 600,000 VND per night, or at Ban Gioc Riverside Resort starting from 1,000,000 VND per night.
- Cuisine:Roast duck, roast pork with star anise leaves, smoked sausage, dried beef, fried fish from the Gâm River, Ban Gioc fragrant fish, fern shoots, bamboo shoots, sticky rice with persimmons, sour pho, Trung Khanh chestnuts, ant egg cake, rice rolls, and rice flour cakes... are dishes you shouldn't miss.
Suggested routes:
- Eastern Route: Ma Phuc Pass - Eye of the Mountain - Phia Thap Incense Village - Pac Rang Blacksmith Village - Ancient Ocean and Continental Relics - Ban Gioc Waterfall - Nguom Ngao Cave - Khuoi Ky Stone Village
- Western Route: Lang Mon Ancient Coral Reef Site - Dao Tien Embroidery Workshop - Mao Ga Mountain - Lung Rong Mountain - Tinh Tuc Hanging Valley - Phia Oac - Salmon Farm - Kolia Tea Plantation
- Northern Route: Stone Garden - Lung Noi Embroidery Workshop - Stone Chrysanthemum Fossil Site - Ho Chi Minh Trail - Pac Bo Historical Site
