I have been to Tan Hoa, breathed in the fresh air of my hometown Quang Binh, wandered on the small village roads, and enjoyed the delicious specialties. But I still have one regret: I have not set foot in Tu Lan cave. People say, if you have come to Tan Hoa but have not visited Tu Lan, it is considered that you have only gone half way. And I am that "half-way" person - I promised myself: I must come back!
Tan Hoa tourist village
Tan Hoa, a small village in Minh Hoa district, Quang Binh province, is not only a peaceful stopover but also one of the tourist villages honored on the world map. In 2023, Tan Hoa was honored to be recognized by the World Tourism Organization (UNWTO) as the "Best Tourist Village in the World", becoming the pride of Vietnamese tourism. Trekking tours to Tu Lan not only bring adventurous experiences but also help visitors understand more about the ecosystem and how local people live in harmony with nature.
Since being recognized by UNWTO, Tan Hoa has continuously developed but still retains its pristine beauty. Many local people have been trained to become professional tour guides. Tourism infrastructure has been improved but the village identity has not been lost. International tourists have flocked to the village but the sustainable tourism model has still been preserved.
Tan Hoa Tourist Village, Quang Binh
Flood level gauge at the village entrance
Tan Hoa is also famous for the Tu Lan cave system, which was chosen as the setting for famous domestic and international films such as: "The Immortal" by director Victor Vu, "The Legend of Quan Tien" by director Dinh Tuan Vu and "Kong - Skull Island" by director Jordan Vogt-Roberts.
I arrived in Tan Hoa on a beautiful morning, with a light backpack and an eager mood. Even though I only had one day here, I still wanted to enjoy every moment, because I knew for sure that this place had something very special. I left the crowded streets, far away from the city to a land almost isolated.
Peaceful countryside of Tan Hoa
Tan Hoa is located between the limestone mountains, where nature still retains its magical wildness. The village is small but warm. Stilt houses are looming behind rows of areca trees, rice fields stretch far and wide and somewhere, the sound of roosters crowing in the middle of a summer afternoon. I cannot believe that, just a few hours ago, I was still stuck in the crowded traffic of the city. Or that yesterday I was still stuck in the hustle and bustle of Hanoi.
As soon as I arrived in the village, this trip I only came to experience the countryside, not mentally prepared for the trekking journey to explore the cave. I went to the nearby field to breathe the air and met Mr. Hien - a cheerful local and also the first person I talked to here: "Have you been to Tu Lan yet?".
I replied: "I'm only here until the afternoon so I can't go."
Uncle Hien: “Oh my god, that's such a pity! But it's okay, remember to go next time you come back. Riding an ATV to the lim garden and then going to Tu Lan is great."
I didn’t trek Tu Lan but I had time to wander around and explore the small corners of Tan Hoa, and had the opportunity to come here to see how peaceful Tan Hoa is. I walked on the village road, where children were playing in the yard, and farmers leisurely led their buffaloes home after working in the fields.
Tan Hoa used to be one of the areas heavily affected by natural disasters, with floods becoming almost inevitable. Typhoon Yagi swept through the Central region, Tan Hoa was no exception. The fields were flooded, the village roads suddenly turned into vast streams of water. But after only a few days, when the water receded, everything returned to normal life.
The floating houses are firmly floating on the water, the green fields are full of life again. People still smile, still ready to welcome visitors. Tan Hoa people have found a special way to adapt to the harsh nature: floating houses. This is a creative model that helps people live safely even during big floods. When the water rises, these houses float with the water, helping all activities not be interrupted.
Mr. Dung, a local, was digging the ground while chatting with me: “This season the water has receded, and when flood season comes, Tan Hoa becomes the Venice of Vietnam. Every house has a boat, and without a boat, you can’t go anywhere. But people here are used to it. Now we have floating houses, and when the water rises, the floating houses follow, and we just live as normal. It has its own joys.”
I listened with admiration and a sense of relief. Life here is not easy, but people are still optimistic, still maintain joy and warmth. I feel that when I set foot here, all the stress and fatigue disappear. It is strangely slow and gentle here. I even think this is a more beautiful field than the Dali, China I saw in the movies. No need to go abroad to still be healed in such a wonderful way.
That day I was lucky to have dinner with a family in the village. The meal was not fancy, but it made me very fascinated, fragrant grilled hill chicken, eggplant, boiled sweet potato and especially Pội rice made with hot and fragrant corn.
During the meal, the story of Tu Lan Cave was mentioned again. A young man in the village excitedly said: "Going to Tu Lan without swimming in the underground river is not a trip. The water is clear and cool, swimming through it is so enjoyable. But remember not to shout loudly when you go in there, bats are flying all over the ceiling of the cave."
Corn is the staple food of the people here.
I listened with both excitement and regret. I imagined myself swimming through the underground river, camping in the deep forest, looking at the sparkling stalactites. But it was okay, this journey was not complete, which also meant I had a reason to come back. Before leaving Tan Hoa, Uncle Hien accidentally met me again: "Remember to come back here next time, don't go halfway, you have to go all the way."
I laughed, shook his hand and said firmly: “Definitely, next time I will go to Tu Lan cave, swim across the underground river, and camp in the middle of the forest. I can even go to Va cave!”
After eating, I went to the cornfield, then went to see the people cutting leaves to feed the cows. Surrounded by mountains, this is the special feature of Tan Hoa tourist village. There are many foreigners coming here, everyone rented bicycles and cycled around the village very happily, as if immersing themselves in the life here.
Visit Tu Lan Lodge, a special resort, the staff, guides, chefs and receptionists are all from the village. They have attended training courses and training to become professional staff serving tourists exploring Tu Lan tours.
It was a memorable experience for me, Tan Hoa - a simple but attractive land. This trip was not complete, but that is what makes me look forward to coming back more than ever.
