Trapped at the ends of the earth

stranded trip

"So, I've been away from home since February 23rd, undergoing two periods of self-quarantine in two different countries. I still consider myself lucky to have traveled through 10 international airports safely, and to have been supported by friends in a faraway place like this Arctic region."

Since February 23rd, Hoang Le Giang has traveled through South Korea, Mongolia, Russia, France, and Norway. After undergoing two quarantine periods in Mongolia and Norway, he is currently stranded in Finnmark, a province in northern Norway, also the northernmost point of Europe. Because flights between countries are still restricted, he remains in Norway without a definite return date.

As a travel blogger, this wasn't the first time he'd undertaken such a long journey away from home – but this trip was completely different, because the whole world was experiencing a catastrophe, a crisis both medically and mentally. Far away in the North, he anxiously awaited news from Vietnam every day. Every positive or negative development regarding the pandemic became good or bad news directly affecting his work and personal life.

"I am torn between calmly enjoying life in the present and putting myself in the shoes of those left behind, having to shoulder the burden amidst all the chaos."

miracles at the ends of the earth

Hoang Le Giang lives with a friend in the mountains, where they have a wooden cabin in the open air to herd reindeer. Every day he helps his friend herd reindeer and does odd jobs such as carrying supplies, chopping wood, fetching water, and cooking. People in this area rarely interact with each other; each house is 2-3 km apart, so even though the number of infections is increasing in Europe and Norway, this place remains relatively safe.

The Sami people living here are known for their calm demeanor and optimistic spirit. Facing the pandemic, they focused their energy on their immediate work while also seeing it as an opportunity to spend time with loved ones and family. As an Asian man lost in Europe, Hoang Le Giang faced no discrimination (as Asia is considered the first place where the Covid-19 virus outbreak occurred). On the contrary, his friends throughout Norway offered to help him if needed. Some even offered to lend him money or provide him with a place to sleep. The Norwegian government also allowed him to stay in the country, even though his visa had expired, without any liability.

"This pandemic doesn't care about nationality, social status, or wealth; we are all one species. This is an opportunity for us to reflect, to be more empathetic to each other's difficulties and mistakes, and life will be warmer."

Day after day, he kept himself busy with work like a true Sami, while still finding time to film and take pictures. His bed was right next to the window, from which he could gaze out at the starry sky, sometimes revealing the Northern Lights. Although he had traveled to Norway, Iceland, and Sweden many times to hunt for the myriad forms of the aurora borealis, Hoang Le Giang ultimately found the most beautiful aurora during this turbulent period. Not only did it possess breathtaking colors, but the aurora borealis that night also appeared in the shape of angel wings, which, according to Norse belief, were the wings of the Valkyries (minions who served the supreme god Odin, according to Norse mythology).

"Morning, noon, afternoon, evening, fog, night, bright sunshine—it's always beautiful. Even the snowstorms that come every four or five days possess an unyielding, fierce beauty."

live like a Norwegian

Living in the forest, Hoang Le Giang became accustomed to the natural lifestyle of the Sami people. If he wanted firewood, he would chop it himself; if he was thirsty, he would go to the river to fetch water; if he wanted fish, he would catch it himself; he would bake his own bread and dry his own meat… Spending the rest of his time herding reindeer, he also came to understand the lives of these people at the ends of the earth. They chose reindeer herding as a way of life: loving nature, living amidst the mountains and forests, not worrying about time or weather, spending little time in the city but staying with their herds, protecting and guiding them from one pasture to another. Even the reindeer have become… familiar with him. “In the past, filming these animals required drones and telephoto lenses because they were so shy. Now, after living here for so long, they recognize me; I just need a phone,” Hoang Le Giang shared humorously.

Recently, the Norwegian television channel NRK Finmark even aired an interview clip about Hoang Le Giang, describing him as "after a month in Kaautokeino (Finnmark), the Vietnamese man has become a true reindeer herder."

"I love the fresh air here. Every morning I like to open the door and breathe in the cool air, then go light a fire to fetch water. Each day here goes by so quickly, morning turns into night, I eat, then go herd reindeer with my friends, and then come back to sleep."

"I try to find ways to live a useful life, learning more survival skills in this polar region. Now I can drive a snowmobile quite skillfully, although sometimes I still get lost or the vehicle gets stuck in deep snow..."

"Many people say I have a dreamlike quarantine life. I know I'm in a place that I, and so many others, long to experience. But every day, I still wait to see if there's a flight to go home."

Lan Oanh